How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off.

How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing.

I published the i-cord edge tutorial a couple of years ago, but I still keep getting questions and emails about it. So, I decided to put together a whole post that I will devote to answering the most popular requests.

  • What stitch pattern can I use the i-cord edge with?

Basically, you can use it with ANY stitch pattern. But I would say that the i-cord looks the best next to the textured stitch patterns.

When used next to the stockinette stitch, there are some things to keep in mind.

  • The icord won’t stand out as much against the stockinette as it does against the textured stitches.
  • If knit too tight, it might start pulling the stockinette fabric. Make sure to swatch before you use it on a bigger project. If you see that the i-cord is puling the fabric, you will have to watch your tension more carefully and make i-cord stitches longer than the ones in the main fabric.
  • The edge will stop the rolling of the fabric, but you might have to adjust the number of stitches in the i-cord. Thinner yarns will require more stitches to keep the edge in place, with thicker yarns 3-st i-cord selvage might be enough. The only thing to know for sure what works best for you is to make a swatch.

The i-cord would look and behave perfectly with garter stitch, brioche stitch or any slip stitch textured pattern.

  • How many extra stitches to add to the stitch count?

Though I mentioned it in the main tutorial post, I still got some questions, so I decided to cover this question in a more detailed way.

For 2-st I-cord selvage you will add 4 extra stitches to your stitch count. For 3-st I-cord selvage you will add 6 extra stitches to you stitch count.

So, if you have the pattern, let’s say, for the garter stitch scarf that tells you to cast on 60 sts and you want to add the 2-st i-cord selvage to it, you will cast on 64 sts and if you are adding 3-st i-cord selavage, you will cast on 66 sts.

  • How to add the i-cord selvage to the cardigan bands?

This question cannot be covered in one post. If you are an experienced knitter and can easily modify patterns, here are some tips that can help you:

  • You can use the i-cord selvage only when the bands are knit simultaneously with the body or if the bands are knit separately and then sewn on the body of the cardigan.
  • If the stitches for the pattern are being picked up and the band is knit perpendicular to the main body of the cardigan, then you should use the i-cord bind off technique.

If you are more confident with following the pattern, The Choice is the knit that uses the i-cord selvage technique when the band is knit simultaneously with the body of the cardigan.

  • Do you slip stitches knitwise or purlwise?

The stitches are supposed to be slipped always purlwise.

  • How to use the i-cord edge when changing colors?

This question cannot be covered in a couple of sentences, I will make sure to create a separate tutorial for it!

  • How to use the i-cord edge with the ribbing?

The i-cord edge is perfect for using with ribbing patterns! As a matter of fact, I have used it in all my patterns with the split ribbing edge. You can find it in different variations in Journey, Ivy, Mohair Flor and The Edge.


  • Sl – slip.
  • wyib – with yarn in back.
  • wyif – with yarn in front.
  • st/sts – stitch/stitches.
  • k – knit.
  • p – purl.

Double Selvage with 1×1 Ribbing

Double Selvage works great with 1×1 ribbing. The best way to use it is next to the purl stitch on the right side – this way the selvage will blend in with the main pattern and will look like a continuation of the ribbing.


Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, k1; p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyib, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, p1; k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyif, p1.

Repeat Rows [1-2] for a double i-cord/selvage with 1×1 ribbing.

Triple Selvage with 2×2 Ribbing

Just like in case with the double selvage, it is recommended to place purl stitches of the ribbing next to the i-cord edge on the right side.


Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1; p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts; k1, sl 1 wyif, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyif; k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts; sl 1 wyif, k1, p1.

Repeat Rows [1-2] for a triple selvage/i-cord with 2×2 ribbing.

  • How to bind off the i-cord edge?

Binding off the i-cord is not much different as binding off in pattern any other stitch, but let me walk you through this visually, so you can have a better idea.

How To Bind Off a Double Selvage

(To see a bigger picture, click on it)


How To Bind Off a Triple Selvage

(To see a bigger picture, click on it)

Just one more little tip for the finishing. The i-cord edge is ideal for hiding the ends – just thread the yarn inside the “tube”!

How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing.

I hope I answered most of your questions and you will successfully use this technique for your projects. I will also copy paste these answers and the link to the tutorials to the main post, where you will be able to find everything in one place.

Have a wonderful Sunday!


By | 2018-04-08T08:37:01+00:00 April 8th, 2018|Free Patterns and Tutorials|8 Comments

How To Pick Up Stitches for the Raglan Sleeve and Avoid Holes in the Underarm


Happy Sunday, dear friends! Today I decided to show you my little trick that I use to avoid holes in the underarm when picking up stitches for the raglan sleeve. When I knit my first raglan, I religiously followed the pattern instructions, which said to pick up cast on stitches in the underarm and at the end to sew small holes. I did sew the holes, but every once in awhile the sewed in holes become holes again. I struggled a lot with them and thought there had to be a way to avoid these holes altogether and not bother closing them up after you are done knitting. After experimenting I came up with the solution that I now use every single time when knitting the raglan. It never failed me once! I hope you will find it helpful as well and will get rid of these pesky underarm holes once and for all.

At first let’s see what happens when you pick up stitches the “traditional” way. Usually when you divide the body and sleeves, you are instructed to cast on x number of stitches between the front and the back. For example, the instructions would look something like this:

Body and Sleeves Separating: Work front xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work back xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work front xxx sts.

When you are done with the body, you usually get back to the sleeves. This is how it looks like, more or less. You can see the little “knobs” on each of 6 cast on stitch.

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

This what usually happens next, if you follow the instructions.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s see how we can avoid it altogether. I am going to use the yarn in the contrasting color for demonstration purposes.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

We can’t just continue working in the round as usual, because we have 8 extra sts on the needles and it will drastically change the size of the sleeve. So, we need one more step before we can continue our sleeve as usual.

After you picked up all the stitches needed, continue knitting the first round:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

In order to come back to the instructed 6 underarm stitches, we need to decrease all the extra sts on the next round.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s knit a couple of rounds and take a look at the underarm:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

Ta-daaam! No holes! And the number of sts is exactly the same as indicated in the pattern instructions! You can use this little trick with any raglan sleeve instructions. Important to remember: there is no certain rule how many extra sts need to be picked up. The number of picked up extra sts can vary – sometimes you need 4, sometimes 5, sometimes just 2 is enough. You will have to watch your fabric and see if all the holes/gaps are closed. And always decrease all the extra sts to come to the number of sleeve sts indicated in the pattern.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments!


By | 2017-08-01T07:58:49+00:00 October 2nd, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|30 Comments

How To Trim A Neckline In Sweaters – Perfect Neckline Trim Tutorial

Today I have a big tutorial for you. It is a very detailed step-by-step instruction how to finish the neckline in sweaters impeccably. Finishing is not the most fun part of the process, but this is the reality – good finishing can save a sweater hiding all the imperfections and bad finishing can ruin the most perfectly made sweater.

I learned this technique several years ago and I use it almost every single time for any kind of trim – neckline, cardigan bands, armholes. You can see it in my Gallery sweater, Mineral Heather sweater, La Flor sweater, Ocean and Violet Gift dresses. It saved many of my far from perfect bind off and side edges. What I also love about it is that you can use it as a decorative element too.

How To Trim Neckline In Knitting

So, let’s suppose you are done with knitting your sweater, seamed the shoulders and ready to trim it. Here is my mini “sweater”.

How To Trim Neckline In Knitting

As you can see the neckline is not perfectly smooth, though I used sloped bind off to avoid steps in the neckline. The place where you join new ball of yarn is visible. But I assure you all these imperfections will be hidden after the trim.

You will need the following:

  • Your sweater/dress/top with seamed shoulders.
  • The same yarn that you used for the main body.
  • The contrasting yarn – this is optional. You can use only one yarn, the one that you used for the main body. I am using contrasting yarn for the demonstration purposes and to show you how you can add a contrasting color element to your sweater using this technique.
  • Crochet hook in size recommended for the yarn you are using (check the label, usually this information is listed there).
  • Circular needle one-two sizes smaller than the one you used for the main body.

Don’t be afraid of the crochet hook. Even if you’ve never made a single stitch with the crochet hook, you can still use it successfully following this step by step photo guide.

Before we get to the actual trimming, let’s look at the places from where we are going to pick up the stitches. This is very crucial for a smooth neckline trim. There are three different places from where we will pick up stitches – the straight horizontal bind off edge, the straight vertical edge (the place where you were knitting straight without binding off stitches) and the sloped edge. Let’s see from where we are supposed to pick up stitches.

The straight vertical edge. The arrow shows the place from where we will pick up our stitches – right between the selvage stitch and the next stitch.

How To Trim Neckline In Knitting

The bind off edges (both straight and sloped). The arrow shows the stitch right UNDER the bind off. Some tutorials tell you to pick up stitches inserting needle/crochet hook under the bind off edge, but in my opinion it is not the perfect way, as it can create little holes. I always insert the needle/crochet hook IN the stitch that is right below the bind off edge (see the red arrow) and pick up a stitch from there.

How To Trim Neckline In Knitting

Now we are ready to start. If you want to see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab.

Take a crochet hook and yarn in contrasting or the same color.

Here how it will look like when you are done with this section.

How To Trim Neckline In Knitting

In the next section you will work along the straight bind off edge and then get to the other side of the neckline and again work along the straight section.

We are done with the front and will do the same thing on the back.

Now we need to “close” the slip stitch chain.

We are done with the most challenging part of the process. Now everything is going to be very easy.

Now you will continue working as usual – in the stitch that your pattern instructions indicate. There is one more step that I do before getting to the recommended stitch pattern for the band. You can also do it if you want to add a little bit more texture to the band, but it is entirely up to you. After I picked up all the stitches, I purl the first row and only then start the recommended stitch pattern.

Here how the band looks like from the back.

How To Trim Neckline In Knitting

And here is the front.

How To Trim Neckline In Knitting

You can compare it with “before” picture and see how all imperfections are hidden. There are no holes, no bulk in the neckline area and there is a beautiful contrasting chain running smoothly along the edge.

I hope you will use this technique in your projects. Please, let me know if you still have any questions, I’ll be happy to answer them in the comments.



By | 2017-08-01T08:01:14+00:00 March 14th, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Tutorial|53 Comments