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How to Incorporate Increased Stitches into the Established Pattern

How to Incorporate Increased Stitches into Established Pattern

In my latest pattern that is being tested right now, you will find the instructions that look something like that “work even, incorporating the increased sts into est pattern”. Though I try to write my patterns as detailed as possible and in this particular pattern I walk the knitter through the first rows/rounds with step by step instructions on how to work the increased stitches into the pattern, it is impossible to write up every single row of the sweater, just because it would end up way too big and messy. So, such instructions as “work as est” come in handy and they are pretty self explanatory.

But what if you are a new knitter and this whole concept of “as established” is scary for you? In this tutorial I will try to explain to you the basics of how to increase stitches and keep the pattern sequence intact.

Before I begin here is the list of abbreviations used:

M1R – make one right increase.

M1L – make one left increase.

inc/inc-s/inc-d – increase/increases/increased

st/sts – stitch/stitches

How to Incorporate Increased Stitches into the Established Pattern

1×1 rib

To enlarge the photo, click on it.

As you can see, incorporating increased stitches into binary stitch patterns (2 st repeat patterns) is very easy – all you have to do is to look at one stitch before or after it for the clue what you are supposed to work to keep the pattern intact.

But what if there are more stitches in one repeat, especially this is the case for lace shawls. I remember knitting my first lace shawl from Vogue Knitting issue and was quiet lost at first when the pattern asked to incorporate the increased stitches into a complicated lace pattern. When this happens and you don’t have a chance to write to designer to ask for help, the best way to go is to understand the stitch pattern sequence and the logic behind it.

For demonstrations, let’s take Double Moss stitch pattern that has 4 st repeat + 2 sts for symmetry and 4 rows repeat:

Row 1 (RS): * K2, P2 *, K2

Row 2 (WS): P2, * K2, P2 *

Row 3: * P2, K2 *, P2

Row 4: K2, * P2, K2 *

How to Incorporate Increased Stitches into Established Pattern

This pattern is more tricky not only because it has more stitches in one repeat, but also because it has more rows in one full pattern repeat. Let’s tale a look on how you can handle it.

How to Incorporate Increased Stitches into the Established Pattern

Double Moss

To enlarge the photo, click on it.

After some practice, you will start “feeling” the stitch pattern and understand the logic of it much better, so the whole process of incorporating increased stitches would be quiet automatic and you won’t have to analyze it that much. This is the beauty of knitting – with some time and patience, you can easily master any aspect of it!

I hope you will find this tutorial helpful in your future projects.


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By | 2018-06-20T07:36:15+00:00 June 20th, 2018|Free Patterns and Tutorials|5 Comments

Knitting Tutorial – How To Seam Ribbing Impeccably

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

During the last months I receive quiet a lot of emails from you with different questions – helping with deciphering the pattern instructions, technical things, stitch pattern explanations, etc. I try my best to answer as detailed as possible, but after receiving several quiet similar questions, I thought that maybe I should start collecting them and later put the tutorials together, so I can refer you to them when you are missing this information.

So, if you have some knitting emergencies happening, please, feel free to contact me at alina@giftofknitting.com – I’ll try my best to help and if it is quiet a general question, I’ll create a visual tutorial for more people to use it. I usually answer during 3-4 days.

One of the recent questions that repeated itself over several emails was “How To Seam Ribbing Impeccably”?

In some patterns you will find instruction to seam shoulders using an invisible horizontal seam. The horizontal seam works great for the stockinette stitch, for example; but if you are trying to put together the ribbing the seam isn’t invisible anymore – you will end up with this “jog”:

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

As you can see the stitch columns are not perfectly aligned, they are slightly unbalanced. On one hand – who will notice that at the shoulder seam?! But if you are a perfectionist and this “hiccup” is bothering you, there are some ways to fix it.

  • First, you can ignore the knitting pattern instructions to bind off the shoulders and then seam them together. But instead place the shoulder stitches on the stitch holder and then use three-needle bind off. This way the stitch columns will be perfectly aligned. There are numerous tutorials out there that walk you through three-needle bind off, so I won’t cover it here.
  • There is one more way that you can use, especially if you want to have a pretty sturdy seam. Instead of horizontal seam, you will use crochet slip chain that will align the stitches perfectly.

Let me walk you through the latter.

How to Seam Ribbing in Knitting

If you need to see a bigger image, open it in the new tab.

And here is 2×2 rib fabric – both right and wrong sides. You can see how the jog completely disappeared and your perfectionist self can be happy now 🙂

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

I’m always happy to see my tutorials on your Pinterest board, if you like it, of course!

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

Thank you for your questions that inspired this tutorial – feel free to send more 🙂

Have a wonderful day!


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By | 2017-08-16T06:01:25+00:00 August 16th, 2017|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting|15 Comments

How To Knit A Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Today I would like to share with you a free pattern that I put together for my California Crop TopIt’s a pretty straightforward knit that can become the perfect vacation project, as it doesn’t require much yarn, knits up fast and it’s very easy to make.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

In the simple knit piece as this one, yarn will play the main role. I love the ribbon yarn for this project, because the thread is wide, which is very fast to knit, but because of the nature of the thread, it is very light. Plus, it creates a textured surface, even when used with the simplest stitch patterns.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

As you can see in my previous post, I chose “purl” side as the right side of the fabric, but if you feel like it you can definitely use it as a reversible top and wear it with any side facing up – so many designers use the visible seam as the decorative element now. And at the end of a day, it is a casual crop summer top, it doesn’t have to be perfect 🙂

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

To see the fit of the top, check my modeled post here – The Gift Of Knitting – California Crop WATG Top.

How To Knit A Crop Top

SIZE:

32 (36, 40)” [81.5 (91.5, 101.5) cm]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Finished bust circumference: 34 (38, 42)” [86.5 (96.5, 106.5) cm].

Finished length from the armhole: approx 7 (7 1/4, 7 3/4)” [17.8 (18.4, 19.5) cm].

MATERIALS:

Yarn

3 (4, 4) skeins of Wool and the Gang, Stone Washed, 100% cotton. 1.8 oz. (50 g), 82 yds. (75 m).

Please, keep in mind that the yardage recommended is approximate. 

Needles. 5.5 mm (US 9)

GAUGE

4″ (10 cm) = 12 sts. The row gauge is not essential in this project.

 

BACK

  • CO 51 (57, 63) sts, using a long tail cast on method.
  • *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
  • Repeat the last row 4 more times.
  • Next Row (RS): Purl.
  • Next Row (WS): Knit.
  • Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures approximately 7 (7 1/4, 7 3/4)” [17.8 (18.4, 19.5) cm], finishing after WS row.
  • Next Row (RS): Bind off 7 (9, 11) sts purlwise; purl to end – 44 (48, 52) sts.
  • Next Row (WS): Bind off 7 (9, 11) sts knitwise; knit to end – 37 (39, 41) sts.
  • Next Row (RS): K1, purl to last st, k1.
  • Next Row (RS): K1, knit to last st, k1.
  • Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures approximately 7 1/2 (7 1/2, 7 3/4)” [19 (19, 19.5) cm], finishing after RS row.
  • Bind off all 37 (39, 41) sts knitwise.

FRONT

  • Make identical to the BACK.

FINISHING

  • Block the pieces.
  • Seam shoulders: Place the pieces flat, with bind off edges facing each other, RS of the fabric (in this case, purl side) facing up. Using a horizontal seam, sew shoulders together (each shoulder is approximately 1 1/2 – 1 3/4″ wide).
  • Seam FRONT and BACK: Place the pieces flat, RS of the fabric (in this case, purl side) facing up, side edges next to each other. Make sure to align the pieces, with armhole edges being on the same level. Using a mattress stitch, sew edges together on both sides.
  • Weave in the ends.

Note: As you can see, I chose “purl” side as the right side of the fabric, but you can flip it over and stay with the classic stockinette stitch – just seam the pieces on reverse, with knit side facing up.

Note: This is a free pattern. It wasn’t test knitted or tech edited. I tried my best to avoid any mistakes, but if you find one, please, let me know in the comments below. 

I hope you will use this pattern this summer and create your own simple Crop Top. If you liked the pattern, please, share it on your Pinterest board, I would really appreciate it!.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Have a wonderful day today!


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By | 2018-01-28T08:44:35+00:00 July 26th, 2017|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Pattern, Tutorial|11 Comments

I-cord Bind Off In The Round. Sleeve.

Today I want to share with you an i-cord bind off when knitting in the round tutorial that I created specially for the sleeves of The Choice Cardigan (coming at the beginning of November!!!). But you can use it with any pattern, even if instructions are completely different!

I-cord Bind Off In The Round. Sleeve.

How To Knit I-Cord Bind Off In The Round

Abbreviations:

  • BOR – beginning of the round.
  • st(s) – stitch(es).
  • RH – right hand.
  • LH – left hand.
  • ssk – slip, slip, knit.
  • k2tog – knit two together.
  • tbl – through back loop.

To see a bigger photo open it in the new tab

Here is the link to a video tutorial how to graft live i-cord sts and cast on i-cord sts – Grafting I-Cord Bind Off. The video is silent, but in my opinion is very clear.

I hope you’ll find this mini-tutorial useful! As always, feel free to post any questions in the comments.

Have a wonderful Sunday!


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By | 2017-08-01T07:58:12+00:00 October 23rd, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|18 Comments

How To Pick Up Stitches for the Raglan Sleeve and Avoid Holes in the Underarm

how-to-pick-up-stitches-for-raglan-sleeve-without-holes-1-10-16-14

Happy Sunday, dear friends! Today I decided to show you my little trick that I use to avoid holes in the underarm when picking up stitches for the raglan sleeve. When I knit my first raglan, I religiously followed the pattern instructions, which said to pick up cast on stitches in the underarm and at the end to sew small holes. I did sew the holes, but every once in awhile the sewed in holes become holes again. I struggled a lot with them and thought there had to be a way to avoid these holes altogether and not bother closing them up after you are done knitting. After experimenting I came up with the solution that I now use every single time when knitting the raglan. It never failed me once! I hope you will find it helpful as well and will get rid of these pesky underarm holes once and for all.

At first let’s see what happens when you pick up stitches the “traditional” way. Usually when you divide the body and sleeves, you are instructed to cast on x number of stitches between the front and the back. For example, the instructions would look something like this:

Body and Sleeves Separating: Work front xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work back xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work front xxx sts.

When you are done with the body, you usually get back to the sleeves. This is how it looks like, more or less. You can see the little “knobs” on each of 6 cast on stitch.

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

This what usually happens next, if you follow the instructions.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s see how we can avoid it altogether. I am going to use the yarn in the contrasting color for demonstration purposes.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

We can’t just continue working in the round as usual, because we have 8 extra sts on the needles and it will drastically change the size of the sleeve. So, we need one more step before we can continue our sleeve as usual.

After you picked up all the stitches needed, continue knitting the first round:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

In order to come back to the instructed 6 underarm stitches, we need to decrease all the extra sts on the next round.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s knit a couple of rounds and take a look at the underarm:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

Ta-daaam! No holes! And the number of sts is exactly the same as indicated in the pattern instructions! You can use this little trick with any raglan sleeve instructions. Important to remember: there is no certain rule how many extra sts need to be picked up. The number of picked up extra sts can vary – sometimes you need 4, sometimes 5, sometimes just 2 is enough. You will have to watch your fabric and see if all the holes/gaps are closed. And always decrease all the extra sts to come to the number of sleeve sts indicated in the pattern.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments!


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By | 2017-08-01T07:58:49+00:00 October 2nd, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|31 Comments

How To Knit a Tuck Stitch. Machine Knitting and Hand Knitting Tutorial.

Happy Monday!

How was your weekend? I hope you had a wonderful time and ready to start a new week!

As you know, I am working on a textured sweater – Sand – on my knitting machine. Today I would love to show you how the tuck stitch is formed on the machine and for those who don’t have a knitting machine, I prepared a tutorial for hand knit tuck stitch.

How To Knit a Tuck Stitch On a Knitting Machine

I am using Silver Reed LK150 machine; if you have a different machine some things might be different, but the principle stays the same.

Instructions

Before you start knitting a tuck stitch, knit a couple of rows in simple stockinette. Let’s start with the carriage on your RIGHT side.

Carriage settings. Side Levers – triangle. Russel levers – I.

  • Row 1: Starting from the THIRD needle, push every 4th needle into D position. Knit one row.
  • Row 2-3: Knit.
  • Row 4: The carriage is on your left. Change the settings: Side Levers – triangle. RIGHT Russel lever – II. Knit one row.
  • Row 5: Side Levers – triangle. Russel levers – I. Starting from the FIFTH needle, push every 4th needle into D position. Knit one row.
  • Row 6-7: Knit.
  • Row 8: The carriage is on your left. Change the settings: Side Levers – triangle. Russel levers – II. Knit one row.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for tuck stitch.

Tutorial

To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab.

Rows 1-4

Then you will repeat the whole process again. You will change only one thing – you will push every 4th needle starting from the FIFTH needle – you  shift the tuck stitch two stitches to the left. Which means that the tuck stitches align in checkerboard order:

Tuck Stitch. Machine Knitting.

As you can see every 4th needle is holding a stitch that is “hugging” and pulling the loops up, forming a tuck stitch.

So what if you don’t have a machine, but you like this stitch and would love to try it in your hand knitting? There are many variations of a hand knit tuck stitch, I will show you the one that uses the same principles as the machine knit tuck stitch.

How To Knit a Tuck Stitch. Hand Knitting.

Instructions

Before you start knitting a tuck stitch, knit a couple of rows in simple stockinette. Stitch count: 4 st repeat + 5 balance sts.

  • Row 1 (RS): P2, *yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts; yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p2.
  • Row 2 (WS): K2, *yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts; yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k2.
  • Row 3: P2, *yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 5 sts; yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p2.
  • Row 4: K2, *k4tog (3 yo loops + a st); rep from * to last 6 sts; k4tog (3 yo loops + st), k2.
  • Row 5: P4, *yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 5 sts; yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p4.
  • Row 6: K4, *yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k3; rep from * to last 6 sts; yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k4.
  • Row 7: P4, *yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 7 sts; yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p4.
  • Row 8: K4, *k4tog (3 yo loops + a st); rep from * to last 8 sts; k4tog (3 yo loops + st), k4.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for tuck stitch.

Tutorial

To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab.

Row 1

Row 2

Row 3

Row 4

Tuck Stitch. Hand Knitting.

Knit 3.

You will repeat the same steps for Rows 5-8. The only difference is that you will knit 4 sts at the beginning of a row, instead of two – you shift the tuck stitch 2 stitches to the left.

Here is the result. Looks exactly like the machine knit tuck stitch!

Tuck Stitch. Hand Knitting.

Don’t be afraid to experiment – try “spreading out” the stitch, try different placement of stitches, try different fibers! I think knitting a garment with overall tuck stitch pattern will be very time consuming, but you can always add this stitch as a decorative element to your simple stockinette! One more way to speed up the process is to knit with a very loose gauge – this way you will create a lacy fabric perfect for spring and summer light pullovers/tops. Feel free to ask me any questions in the comments!

I hope you will use this stitch in some of your projects. Have a wonderful week!


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