Today I would love to share with you a technique that I learned several years ago that is absolutely essential for cardigans if you want to avoid knitting the bands and finishing the raw edges. It also comes in handy for scarves or any items with open raw edges. It looks like an applied I-cord, but rather than picking up stitches along the edge and knitting the i-cord on, you knit “I-cord” simultaneously with the main fabric and don’t have to spend time to trim the edges after you are done with the project – a huge time saver!
This technique can be used with any stitch pattern. It looks best when knit next to the textured stitches, but can be used with simple stockinette, it won’t “pop” as much, but it will do the work – keep the edge of your knitting flat and neat – from the front, back and the sides. I used it a lot in my “pre-blog era”, but there are several projects with this technique documented here – Textured Scarf (I think it was my third or forth blog post!), Journey sweater (to create side splits) and Grateful Shawl (to create smooth edges and avoid finishing later).
There are two types of “i-cords” or selvage stitches I use – double and triple. They look slightly different from each other. Triple is thicker and will be perfect for cardigan front edges – it will perfectly hold the shape. Double is great for light garments and for lace. First I will give you the written instructions and then I’ll break it down for you in step-by-step photo tutorial.
Abbreviations
- Sl – slip.
- wyib – with yarn in back.
- wyif – with yarn in front.
- st/sts – stitch/stitches.
- k – knit.
- p – purl.
Double Selvage
Instructions:
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, k1; work in any given stitch pattern to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyib, p1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, p1; work in any given stitch pattern to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyif, p1.
Repeat Rows [1-2] for a double i-cord/selvage.
Tutorial
(To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab)
Right Side Row
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- Right Side Row. First two stitches form the double i-cord.
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- Slip the first stitch, holding the yarn in the back.
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- Knit the second stitch.
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- Work in any given stitch pattern to 2 last stitches.
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- Slip the next stitch off, holding the yarn in the back.
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- Purl the last stitch.
Wrong Side Row
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- Wrong Side Row. First two stitches form the double i-cord.
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- Slip the first stitch, holding the yarn in the back.
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- Purl next stitch.
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- Work in any given stitch pattern to 2 last stitches.
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- Slip next stitch, holding yarn in FRONT.
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- Purl the last stitch.
Triple Selvage
Instructions:
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1; work in any given stitch pattern to last 3 sts; k1, sl 1 wyif, p1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyif; work in any given stitch pattern to last 3 sts; sl 1 wyif, k1, p1.
Repeat Rows [1-2] for a triple selvage/i-cord.
Tutorial
(To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab)
Right Side Row
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- Right Side Row. Three first stitches form the triple i-cord.
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- Slip the first stitch, holding the yarn in the back.
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- Slip the second stitch, holding the yarn in front.
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- Knit next stitch.
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- Work in any given stitch pattern to 3 last stitches.
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- Knit next stitch.
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- Slip next stitch, holding the yarn in front.
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- Purl the last stitch.
Wrong Side Row
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- Slip the first stitch, holding the yarn in the back.
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- Knit the next stitch.
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- Slip the next stitch, holding the yarn in front.
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- Work in any given stitch pattern to last 3 stitches. Slip the next stitch with yarn in front.
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- Knit the next stitch.
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- Purl the last stitch.
The result
The front of the work:
The back of the work:
As you can see both sides are equally neat and even. One more thing to remember – if you are adding this edging to a scarf, for example, don’t forget to add 4 (for a double one) or 6 (for a triple one) extra stitches to your stitch count.
I hope you will find this tutorial useful for many of your future projects!
UPDATE
I gathered most commonly asked question in the comments and in the emails and tried to answer them in the best way possible – I created an additional blog post for it (How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off). I am copying my answers here, so you can have everything in one place.
Basically, you can use it with ANY stitch pattern. But I would say that the i-cord looks the best next to the textured stitch patterns.
When used next to the stockinette stitch, there are some things to keep in mind.
- The icord won’t stand out as much against the stockinette as it does against the textured stitches.
- If knit too tight, it might start pulling the stockinette fabric. Make sure to swatch before you use it on a bigger project. If you see that the i-cord is puling the fabric, you will have to watch your tension more carefully and make i-cord stitches longer than the ones in the main fabric.
- The edge will stop the rolling of the fabric, but you might have to adjust the number of stitches in the i-cord. Thinner yarns will require more stitches to keep the edge in place, with thicker yarns 3-st i-cord selvage might be enough. The only thing to know for sure what works best for you is to make a swatch.
The i-cord would look and behave perfectly with garter stitch, brioche stitch or any slip stitch textured pattern.
Though I mentioned it in the main tutorial post, I still got some questions, so I decided to cover this question in a more detailed way.
For 2-st I-cord selvage you will add 4 extra stitches to your stitch count. For 3-st I-cord selvage you will add 6 extra stitches to you stitch count.
So, if you have the pattern, let’s say, for the garter stitch scarf that tells you to cast on 60 sts and you want to add the 2-st i-cord selvage to it, you will cast on 64 sts and if you are adding 3-st i-cord selavage, you will cast on 66 sts.
This question cannot be covered in one post. If you are an experienced knitter and can easily modify patterns, here are some tips that can help you:
- You can use the i-cord selvage only when the bands are knit simultaneously with the body or if the bands are knit separately and then sewn on the body of the cardigan.
- If the stitches for the pattern are being picked up and the band is knit perpendicular to the main body of the cardigan, then you should use the i-cord bind off technique.
If you are more confident with following the pattern, The Choice is the knit that uses the i-cord selvage technique when the band is knit simultaneously with the body of the cardigan.
The stitches are supposed to be slipped always purlwise.
This question cannot be covered in a couple of sentences, I will make sure to create a separate tutorial for it!
The i-cord edge is perfect for using with ribbing patterns! As a matter of fact, I have used it in all my patterns with the split ribbing edge. You can find it in different variations in Journey, Ivy, Mohair Flor and The Edge.
You can check the tutorial for the selvage i-cord + ribbing here – How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off
Binding off the i-cord is not much different as binding off in pattern any other stitch. For a photo tutorial see this post – How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off
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Love love love all your tutorials!
So well written and useful!
Thank you so much for all the new knowledge!
You’re the best teacher 😉
Thank you so much, Zeta! I am glad you find them helpful 🙂
Hi, Alina,
I just found your post and this is almost identical to the edge I came up with this summer. Great minds! Anyway, thank-you. You wrote it out so much better than I did and hopefully I can remember it and teach it much better with the use of your notes. Excellent!
I am going to bookmark this post so it will always be handy, it is wonderful and so are you!
Thank you, Tracey!!!
Excellent post. I’m going to practice this and use it in future knitting. Thanks!
Always happy to help!!
I have used this a few times in projects it’s great isn’t it!
It is! I am using it right now in one of my current projects and I love it!
Perfect timing as I am working on my button band. Will this work with a 2×2 rib, do you think?
Yes, it will! Make sure that the purl is right next to this edge – it will create a beautiful contrast and won’t interrupt the pattern .
that looks so fantastic, so crisp and clean! I’ll be pinning this for sure.
Thank you, Julie! Glad you like it!
wonderful! thanks for sharing….i’m definitely going to use this!
Great! Happy to hear that! 🙂
I have Pinned this for future reference, Alina. Your photos are great and your knitting is so perfect. :^)
Thank you so much, Becki!
This is a wonderful tutorial! I can’t wait to try this out.
Thank you so much! Hope you will be able to use in many projects!
Isn’t that something! That’s a really neat (as in “nice,” yes, but also as in “tidy-looking”) solution for edges. I’m not working on anything now that really could benefit from it, but you can bet I’ll be coming back here for the tutorial as soon as I do.
Come to think of it, besides the time-saving and neatness, this technique would build a good hardy edge onto a dishcloth, wouldn’t it?
Oh, absolutely! It is perfect for dishcloths or blankets for example, when you just want a mindless knit and don’t want to bother with the finishing later. Just start with the ribbing using these selvages (they will blur in perfectly with the rib pattern) and then continue in any pattern (I would use trip;e selvage for the blanket). So, when you are done – you are DONE! No picking up stitches along the edges and the fabric will be flat and neat!
Don’t under stand it sorry would love to know it because it looked lovely.Dorothy
Lovely clear tutorial. I’ve used this technique on a baby bonnet pattern before but had forgotten about it. Thank you for the reminder 🙂
Thank you, Evelyn! I am glad you are going to use this technique again!
I just love your tutorial help, I’ve been knitting for years an you have helped me so much.t. Thank You so much
Thank YOU, Beth! I am happy it helped!
Evelyn, thank you so much, I am so grateful for the Internet and Pinterest for allowing me the privilege of learning from all you experts. I’ve been knitting for many of my 69 years but never had so many opportunities to learn to perfect my garments as I have now. It’s great to be part of the beautiful creative world. Brenda, Johannesburg, South Africa.
Hello Brenda!! Thank you so much, for these wonderful words!! Internet is an amazing place, isn’t?! I am also very grateful for the opportunity to meet so many interesting and creative people!
I love your neat knitting and finishing tecniques ! Congratulations ! And would also love to recieve your “lessons” by email, please !
And if you ever come to Uruguay, South America, we will be happy to show you around our Reserve.
Take a look at the website.
Regards,
Maria Ines
Thank you so much, Maria! You can subscribe to the blog via email in the side bar. I visited your website and it looks gorgeous!!! I would love to visit it one day, thank you so much for your generous offer!!
I sent the link to this to everyone in my knitting class. It appears that it will also stop the rolling that you usually get with stockinette. One question though. Do I need to cast on extra stitches for this technique?
Hi Sue! Thank you so much for spreading the word! Yes, it will stop rolling. A couple of things to remember with the stockinette though. The edge will be neat, but won’t stand out as much as against texture; stockinette will have a row gauge slightly bigger than the edge, so to avoid pulling the fabric you need to knit this i-cord slightly looser than usual. Yes you need to cast on extra stitches – “One more thing to remember – if you are adding this edging to a scarf, for example, don’t forget to add 4 (for a double one) or 6 (for a triple one) extra stitches to your stitch count.” I hope it helped!
Can you tell I’d you use this technique only on button bands of a sweater and if so do I add stitches like recommended for scarf or just use the number of stitches required for button band and add to fronts in lieu of knitting separate bands.
Hi Marie! Ok, I need some more information to answer your question…
“Do I add stitches like recommended for scarf or just use the number of stitches required for button band and add to fronts in lieu of knitting separate bands.” As I understand (correct me if I am wrong), you want to create faux I-cord in place of a separate button band? What do you mean by a separate band – the one that you knit from picked up stitches along the edge (so the button band stitches are perpendicular to the fronts)? Or the one that you knit separately and then seam it to the fronts (the button band stitches are parallel to the fronts)? I am asking because it will make a difference in how you calculate your mods.
If you want to skip knitting the band, you will have to make sure that the fronts of the cardigan will still have the same width or otherwise they will be of different size, which means that you will have to calculate how many more stitches you need to add to the fronts. It sounds so much more complicated than it is actually is… To help you with that I need to know your gauge. It is hard to explain in one short comment…
Feel free to send photos of your project at my email, so I will have a clear idea what you mean and help you with that.
What a neat Idea! It looks like a sturdy edge good for blankets. I am definitely pinning this one for future reference. Thanks!
Thank you so much, Gail! I am glad you like it! This technique is amazing for blankets! You can just knit away and not worry about trimming the raw edges once you are done!
Hello,
I love the look of this type of edging. Do I need to add the extra stitches to the cast on row to accommodate for it? (2 or 3 stitches at each end depending on which edge I want to do). This is not listed anywhere. Thank you for your response.
Fellow Knitter
Hi Sandy! Yes, you add extra stitches to your stitch count. 2 sts at each end for a double selvage = total of 4 extra sts to your stitch count; 3 sts at each end for a triple selvage = total of 6 extra sts to your stitch count. For example, your pattern says to cast on 40 sts for a scarf; if you choose to use triple selvage you will cast on 46 sts. I hope it helped! 🙂
I love it, Beautiful hint thank you so much!
You are very welcome, Maria!
Do you slip as to knit or slip as to purl?
Thank you for the question! Slip as if to PURL. Slipped stitched should NOT be twisted. I hope it helped!
I wish I had seen this sooner! I am doing a long simple lace weight stockinette stitch cowl and this would be wonderful for the edges. Oh well, there’s always next time! But thank you for the wonderful tutorial and instructions. I am bookmarking this for sure.
Thank you, Barbara! I am glad you like it!!
Any advice for the left edge (RS)? It comes out much looser than the right edge and I can’t manage to get it to match the right…
Hello, Jodi! On the left edge we purl the last stitch. Some knitters tend to purl looser than knit. Maybe this is the problem? Try to check and adjust your tension on this side each time. Let me know if it helped!
I am having this same issue. Adjusted tension with no success 🙁
I like the finished look but I don’t understand how to make the button holes with this finish if it replacing button bands?
Hi Terri! I usually make open cardis, but you can make button holes with yarn overs.
What a greattutorial! Thanks!
Another way to do the triple selvedge, is to do the same on all rows. This will also eliminate the risk of having one side come out looser than the other:4
First three stitches: Knit 1, Slip 1, Knit 1
Last three stitches: Slip 1, Knit 1, Slip 1.
(All slips are made purlwise with yarn in front)
Regards
Marc
Thank you so much, Marc, for this great addition!!! I really appreciate it!
Hello, Just came across your blog while I was browsing and I love your tutorial and all the comments.
I wonder, is there a book with all your blogs? ….is ” 48 thoughts on Knitting a Perfect Edge A Free Technique”
a book title or the title of your blog……if there isn’t a book, have you considered publishing one with all your
tutorials? I love hard copy. Thanks much
Hi Francese! I am glad you liked this tutorial. No, I don’t have a book with the tutorials. Maybe one day, you never know, right? 🙂
Hello Alina
Many thanks for sharing this! Very helpful for me. I have made my first i-cord thanks to you!! Vanessa
Yay!! So happy to heart that, Vanessa!
Hi… I have made my self a poncho, it’s already done but the edge of the knitting keeps rolling in…I was wandering if you can help me with that, since the stitchs are all close…Could you help me with that….Please…
I’m not so good with my english, I hope that you understand what i’m trying too explain here….hihihiih
Thank you….
Nat.
Hi Nathalie! Of course, I will try to help as much as I can!! If you prefer, we can do it via email (alina@giftofknitting.com) where you can attach the photos if necessary! First of all, let me ask you if you blocked your garment properly? What yarn weight and fiber content did you use? Which selvedge did you use – double or triple? Please, let me know and I will try to see what we can do!
Hi! Thanks for the tutorial. I have a question. When you slip a stitch, do you slip it as if to knit or as if to purl? Thanks!
Hi Sue! As if to purl. Stitches should NOT be twisted.
Love your tutorial easy to understand
Can I print this instruction off please
Hi Doris! Of course, you can print this tutorial for your own personal use.
Hi Alina,
I have had this bookmarked for the longest time and now would like to use it but wondered if you could give me some advice. I am knitting a bottom-up sweater with a 2 x 2 rib bottom edge, and am planning to use a provisional CO, then come back to the ribbing at the end and knit a split hem, with the 2 stitch selvedge you have suggested.
I’m wondering – in integrating the selvedge into the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern on the RS, should I do [2 st selvedge], K2, P2….K2, [2st selvedge], or is the selvedge better worked after a single K stitch?
I hope this makes sense!
Thank you x
Actually, my bigger question is this:
When using an i-cord edge (whether it is 2 stitches or 3), how do you treat these selvedge stitches when it comes time to bind off? For example, if I am knitting a split hem on a sweater, in ribbing, and I am using the 2 stitch i-cord selvedge, then when I come to my tubular bind-off, how do I neatly account for the extra stitches?
Hi Quynh! Thank you for your questions!
“I’m wondering – in integrating the selvedge into the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern on the RS, should I do [2 st selvedge], K2, P2….K2, [2st selvedge], or is the selvedge better worked after a single K stitch?”
I would do the following on the RS: [2 st selvedge], P2, K2….K2, P2 [2st selvedge]. Purl sts look better next to the i-cord selvage, because the contrast is much more profound than next to the knit sts. Plus, it will create a beautiful symmetry, as the i-cord will look like a part of the 2×2 rib pattern.
“When using an i-cord edge (whether it is 2 stitches or 3), how do you treat these selvedge stitches when it comes time to bind off? For example, if I am knitting a split hem on a sweater, in ribbing, and I am using the 2 stitch i-cord selvedge, then when I come to my tubular bind-off, how do I neatly account for the extra stitches?”
I always bind off in pattern, that is to say I knit the selvedges as established and cast them off.
For example, 2 st selvedge.
(RS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, pass the first st on the needle (the slipped one) over the second st on the needle; continue binding off as usual up to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyib, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch, p1, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch.
3-st selvedge:
RS: Sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, pass the first st on the needle (the first slipped one) over the second st on the needle (the second slipped one), k1 pass the first st on the needle over the second st on the needle; continue binding off as usual up to last 3 sts; k1, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch, sl 1 wyif, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch, p1, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch.
I hope it makes sense to you 🙂 It looks way more complicated than it is actually is in knitting 🙂
Hi, thank you for sharing this technique! I would like to use it instead of i-cord selvedge on my garter stitch shawl, because I think it will be stretchier, and I’m wondering if you know of a bind-off that gives a similar look. Thanks in advance 🙂
Hi Roberta! Check this pattern/tutorial http://giftofknitting.com/grateful-shawl-asymmetric-triangular-shawl-free-pattern/ – there you will find a step-by-step tutorial of the i-cord bind off! Let me know if it helped, please!
I want to thank you ever so much for sharing this post!!!! I can do skilled projects but my awful edges hold me back. I can’t wait to try this!
Blessing Liz
Thank YOU for visiting, Elisabeth! Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll be happy to help!
Thank you so much for sharing this technique. I am using it for the button band of my Honeycomb Aran Cardigan. I find that it is for some odd reason shorter than it is supposed to be. (although these are technically selvage stitches, double height). And I wonder if it is possible to make a 4stitch or 5 stitch “i-cord” as well?
Find me on Ravelry
Thank YOU for visiting! Yes! It is possible! I am using 4-st I-cord right now for a cardigan. Once you understand the principle, you can experiment with the number. Also the number of sts will depend on the yarn you use, some yarns will look great with 2 sts, some need 4 or even 6 sts. I will find you on Ravelry!!
My Honeycomb Aran Cardigan is finished and is looking GREAT with the i-Cord border.
I would recommend using 5 or 6 stitches for larger projects.
I actually changed the instructions a bit 🙂
k, s1purwise,k,s1purwise TURN k,s1purwise, purl
for more stitches that would be
(pattern) s1purwise, k, s1purwise, k, s1purwise TURN k, s1purwise, k, s1purwise, k (pattern)
I used this technique to make a proper i-cord for the little hat for my son (also on my ravelry profile).
Thank you so much for this extra info!! I just took a look at your cardi – it’s really beautiful and so well-documented! I hope you will use this technique in many of your projects!
I am new to knitting and am very interested in learning this technique so thank you for sharing. I have a basic question. Do you replace the first and end stitches of the pattern with your pattern or do you add stitches on both the beginning and end of the project?
Hello, Johanne! Thank you for visiting! That’s a great question. It depends on the pattern. In 90% cases I do add stitches to my stitch count, because an i-cord looks good with almost all stitch patterns. But if the pattern has its own “border”/edge, I don’t want to “overload” it and would substitute it with the i-cord edge – in this case make sure that the width of the piece won’t be affected dramatically. Hope it helped!
I see you said that you cast on extra stitches, so does that mean you add 2 extra or 4 extra?
I see that you said you add stitches to the stitch count for the icord, my question is how many? Do you add 2 extra or 4 extra?
I came across your tutorial and it is perfect! I am making a blanket for my daughter and thought i would use the triple, but I wanted to ask first if you thought it would work since the blanket has several color changes?
thanks! love your work.
Thank you so much for the feedback! You can use this technique with colors, but the i-cord will end up covered in stripes. It’s the personal preference, of course, but usually I-cord is used to visually “frame” the work and stand out. When covered in stripes, it will get “lost” a little bit, if you know what I mean… But! It will still do the job of keeping your work from rolling in. Try it on a small swatch and you can decide whether you like it or not.
A little note: Change the color AFTER the first slipped stitch.
Hope it helped 🙂
Thanks so much for sharing your technique. I am always looking for ways to make my edges look nicer and this is perfect.
I read all the comments to see if you addressed this but could not find any so my question is, since i knit a lot of dishcloths is there any way to work the cast on and cast off rows to duplicate the i cord look or do i just have to go back and do an I cord after completed so that all 4 edges match?
Thank you, Sara! You can do the following – use the i-cord cast-on (http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-i-cord-cast-on/), then work in pattern (with this i-cord edge), then use i-cord bind off (http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-i-cord-bind-off/). At the end you will have i-cord edge sts and i-cord bind off sts left (for example, if you used 3 st i-cord, you will have 6 sts in total – 3 on your LH needle and 3 on your RH needle, you will graft these sts together for an impeccable, seamless i-cord “frame”).
You can see my Grateful shawl free pattern (http://giftofknitting.com/grateful-shawl-asymmetric-triangular-shawl-free-pattern/), which I started with an i-cord, then continued knitting using this edge technique and bound off in i-cord as well. The result is – finishing free shawl with a neat i-cord edge all around.
Hope it helped! Happy holidays 🙂
At last I’ve found the correct method! Just spent 48hrs trying to get my 2 edging stiches right. Thank you!
I am glad it helped, Julie!!!
I really like how you show people how to knit, would you mind sharing my blog with other people please?
Thank you, Robyn! You can always comment on any post and live a direct link to your website!!! I will definitely take a look at it!
HI Alina,
I was so excited by this technique that looks so lovely. I have tried and tried to follow the instructions, and my swatch does show the I-cord on the front, but not the back! Don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I always slip the first stitch straight off but can’t get the yarn to the back until after it is slipped off. So I don’t understand that part. I’m really stumped. Can you help me? I’d love to be able to do this. Thanks a lot.
Hi Elly! Do you mind telling me, please, which stitch pattern you are using next to it and what yarn weight? Sometimes the i-cord doesn’t stand out that much against the main stitch pattern, if the yarn is too thin or doesn’t have enough stitch definition.
As for slipping the stitch – the yarn position for the first slipped stitch of the row is not that important, the only thing you should be careful is – not to twist the slipped stitch. Also try to knit the i-cord stitch pretty tight to “pull” them together. Also for how many rows have you tried it? The i-cord starts showing after several rows in knitting.
Please, let me know how it worked out – you can also send me the photos of your work at alina@giftofknitting.com – this way it will be easier to see what is wrong!
Hope it helped!!
Hi Alina, Garter Stitch, Worsted Weight, stitches very evident. Slip stitch not twisted. I will carry on with swatch, trying to pull the i-cord stitch tighter. Right now the cord works on the front, but nothing shows at the back. If still not successful, I’ll send you photos. Thanks for working with me!
Still trying. Not sure about one instruction.
At the end of row 2 [sl 1 wyif, p1] do I slip 1 (note, my working yarn is at back) then bring yarn forward and purl 1? Or do I bring yarn forward, slip 1, and purl 1?
Hi Elly,
maybe a little diagram will help:
s – slip K – knit
sKsKsK are the last 6 stitches on your needle from right to left.
turn
now knit: KsKsKs from left to right (or knit the upper diagram from right to left).
You are basically knitting a lot of salvage stitches, so keep them very loose!
I hope this helps. You can of course remove or add any number of sK combinations.
Thank you so much for joining! But I am confused a little bit, haha 🙂 As far as I understand Elly is using the double selvedge, so there are just two stitches for an i-cord on each side.
“sKsKsK are the last 6 stitches” – why there are 6? Sorry if I misunderstood 🙂
Hi Elly! Sorry for a tardy reply. Sl 1 wyif means “slip one stitch with yarn in FRONT”, which means that you bring yarn forward, then slip 1, and then purl . Try to open the photos in full size in the new tab – there you should see all the details. And again, feel free to write me an email with photos.
Thank you! This is wonderful!
Would love to receive your posts.
Hi Teresa! Thank you so much! You can subscribe to the blog by email – it’s in the side bar.
This looks great! I am relatively new to knitting, and I expect I will find d this very helpful! Very clear instructions and images.
Thank you, Melissa! Let me know, if you have any questions!
Gracias lo podrían traducir al espanol
Thank you, Alina! What a beautiful edge! I am soon starting a shawl project, so I found you just in time! I was even more lucky to see your answer to someone else, on how to make it four-sided!
I have one question though, in your example pieces the work seem to be purled on both sides. How is that done?
Exactly what I was looking for!!!! Thank you for all your wonderful work.
Hi there! I’m wondering if you think this would work with Linen stitch & this may be a stupid question – but do you add the 2 extra stitches on each side to your cast on quantity?
Love this tutorial! Thank you!
Hi Alina. Wonderful tutorial and thank you so much. Currently I’m working the button band of a cardi and I was wondering how I would make a buttonhole. It would be a matter of maybe knitting a couple of rows of the i cord and then re-attaching it to the side. But I was wondering if you had any tips for doing it?
Once again thank you so much for the tutorial. Your pictures are so clear and you explain it perfectly! I’ve bookmarked your site, it’s just lovely.
I have knitted an 18″ doll evening gown with train. If I pick up stitches on the bottom of the gown and train, would you suggest using your finishing stitches to keep the bottom from rolling?
I came across your knitting page this morning whilst searching the net for info to help me with my knitting due to a medical problem that has developed. I have arthritis and my tension has changed (its looser than usual), its been so frustrating to have my knitting looking droopy and messy, this method has certainly helped me with the edging of my garments. Thank you very much.
I stumbled across your blog and have learned SO much,
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This is lovely. how can this be used to carry yarn for stripes. My edges look crazy luckly I,m just starting my project and I dont have a problem restarting if I should do the 3 stitch Icord edge.
Thanks
Helen
Stchntyme on Ravelry
Wow, I wish I’d found this sooner! So I’ve just finished a striped chevon baby blanket and wonder if now I could stop edges from rolling even with just main colour. What do you think?? Thanking you in anticipation.
I’m sure you could make the yarn run through the ‘pipe’… never occurred to me 🙂 I may try it sometime. Find me on ravelry.
Hi, this is the best tutorial I have found for the icord. However I wanted to ask, should the slip be done knit wise? And I assume I’m moving the thread to the back to knit? I’m new to knitting so need that little extra help.
For all slip stitches keep the yarn in FRONT of the slipped purl stitch. Slip them purlwise, because they will be knitted on the way back
Wow, I wish I’d found this sooner! So I’ve just finished a striped chevon baby blanket and wonder if now I could stop edges from rolling even with just main colour. What do you think?? Thanking you in anticipation.
This is really helpful, it’s made a beautiful edge. Question, if I am working increases at the selvedge edge, what would you think is the best increase stitch? I’m trying to get the left and right edges looking the same. I can get the right side increase looking pretty good but the left side is not great.
Work the increases before the border stitches. They will look great.
LOVE this finished edge!! Thank you so much. I didn’t read all the way to the end, and was wondering about cast offs. Frogged the work and added on the 4 stitches.
It looks so clean.
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Should I add extra cast on stitches if I am making a baby blanket?
Add 2 stiches per edge for a smaller border, or if the border should be totally separate from the design, add 4 to 6 stitches
Would one or both work for a afghan? The pattern that I am following is a wrap and not a blanket, but technically has an edge to it already, would I just add on of these to it or do you think I should change it? It is the Natural Leaf Wrap on Ravelry.
It works for ANY knitted edge. Look me up on ravelry to see the cardigan I made, using this edge for the button bar
Got it. For a blanket which would you suggest? the double or triple? Or would either work?
Knit a small sample with one size on one end and the other on the other end. Then you can decide which size fits your project and yarn best.
I am wondering if this method would work well with a shaker or fisherman rib stitch scarf?
I would like to know if this method would work for a Shaker stitch scarf.
WHEW! I love to knit it relaxes me but I’m so disgusted by my edges I was ready to give it all up! You saved me….bless you.
Tara
Have always wanted to know how t get a “neat edge” but now at age 82 I know – can you advise me how not to have a “loose stitch” when casting off perhaps you would advise me via my E Mail Thankyou Liz
Hi! I’m new to knitting and super frustrated by how messy the edges look… This looks SO good, but when I try to follow the instructions, and purl the last stitch on the “right” side, while keeping the yarn in the back, I just get a knot. Isn’t purling requiring the yarn in front? Or do you mean keep it in the back after purling the stitch?
I always slip the last stitch and knit the first. Turns out perfectly for me.
Keep in mind that you are knitting a pipe by skipping those stitches that belong to the other side
It’s common courtesy to mention “slip as if to knit,” or “slip as if to purl.” It can make a huge difference.
And one thing you didn’t mention or deal with, is the fact that your edging will be shorter than the piece your knitting. Slipping stitches means that for every 2 steps forward, you’re taking one step back, thus leaving the edge shorter and not as stretchy as the rest of the fabric you’re knitting. This can cause serious problems when you’re using anything other than garter stitch, which is sort of accordion pleated.
The usefulness of this edging is limited, though in the rare cases you can use it, it is a lovely stitch. It’s perfect for an edge where you’re going to be picking up stitches — for example, for a sleeve.
I’m really thrilled to try your I cord edges. I’m making a baby blanket with 10 rows of seed stich on all 4 sides. I was wondering, since it’s actually adding 2 stitches to each side, should I begin by adding two rows of plan knitting to the cast on and bind off rows before starting the seed stitch border?
Thank you so much for sharing.
Terry
Do you have this anywhere on a video ? The end result looks fabulous.
Beautiful. Will definitely try it. Thank you very much.
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Thank you thank you thank you. I’ve been looking for the perfect edging that could be incorporated into patterns instead of adding on. Yours is a very perfect fit. Again thank you.
Hi Alina. What a fabulous tutorial, thanks so much for sharing. I know our readers will love it. I’ve included your post in our latest Top 10 in Craft. https://craftylikegranny.com/knitting-needles-music-soul/ Cheers Jodie 🙂
Since an I-cord edge is essentially slipped stitches for every alternate row, do you find that the edge is less stretchy than the body of the work? What can be done to overcome this lack of stretch?
Work a yarnover prior to the i-cord and then block the finished piece very hard. The ease from the yarnover will work into the rest of the i-cord stitches.
Hi, I am working the 3 stitch I-cord as a cardigan band but it is still rolling any suggestions?
You need to work a ribbed edge. Try this instead: an extra 6 edge stitches. Work the last 6 of each row: (k1, slip one purlwise with yarn in front) 3x. On the beginning of each row: (k1, p1) 3x.
It makes a very nice edge that looks like stockinette from both sides but provides enough structure to prevent rolling without distorting the pattern.
I have an unrelated knitting question. I was gifted some hand spun yarn but don’t know whether there is enough to use for a garment. How do you gauge how much yarn you need?
Hi Alison. I’m not the owner of this website but I happened to see your comment and might be able to help you with your question. Here’s a link to a knitting calculator that will give you estimates for various garments you may want to knit. It will tell you approximately how much yarn you’ll need. I use it all the time. It’s at Jimmy Beans Wool and this is the link: https://www.jimmybeanswool.com/secure-html/onlineec/knittingCalculator.asp Hope it helps. Take care. Sincerely Vickie D.
Nice post!
What a TERRIFIC find this was for me! I am currently using this edge on a scarf and I can’t believe how beautiful it is. I like knitting scarves, but have always hated the look of those 4 or 6 edge stitches (seed stitch, etc). This edging really makes the scarf. THANK YOU!!
There is a *much* simpler way to do this: work in pattern to the last 2 stitches, slip 2 (purlwise with yarn in front). Knit the first 2 on every row.
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Love this. Thank you. Now, any thoughts on a finishing free neckline?