How to Knit a Perfect Edge – Finishing Free Technique

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How to Knit a Perfect Edge – Finishing Free Technique

Today I would love to share with you a technique that I learned several years ago that is absolutely essential for cardigans if you want to avoid knitting the bands and finishing the raw edges. It also comes in handy for scarves or any items with open raw edges. It looks like an applied I-cord, but rather than picking up stitches along the edge and knitting the i-cord on, you knit “I-cord” simultaneously with the main fabric and don’t have to spend time to trim the edges after you are done with the project – a huge time saver!

How to Knit a Perfect Edge

This technique can be used with any stitch pattern. It looks best when knit next to the textured stitches, but can be used with simple stockinette, it won’t “pop” as much, but it will do the work – keep the edge of your knitting flat and neat – from the front, back and the sides. I used it a lot in my “pre-blog era”, but there are several projects with this technique documented here – Textured Scarf (I think it was my third or forth blog post!), Journey sweater (to create side splits) and Grateful Shawl (to create smooth edges and avoid finishing later).

There are two types of “i-cords” or selvage stitches I use – double and triple. They look slightly different from each other. Triple is thicker and will be perfect for cardigan front edges – it will perfectly hold the shape. Double is great for light garments and for lace. First I will give you the written instructions and then I’ll break it down for you in step-by-step photo tutorial.

Abbreviations

  • Sl – slip.
  • wyib – with yarn in back.
  • wyif – with yarn in front.
  • st/sts – stitch/stitches.
  • k – knit.
  • p – purl.

Double Selvage

Instructions:

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, k1; work in any given stitch pattern to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyib, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, p1; work in any given stitch pattern to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyif, p1.

Repeat Rows [1-2] for a double i-cord/selvage.

Tutorial

(To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab)

Right Side Row

Wrong Side Row

Triple Selvage

Instructions:

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1; work in any given stitch pattern to last 3 sts; k1, sl 1 wyif, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyif; work in any given stitch pattern to last 3 sts; sl 1 wyif, k1, p1.

Repeat Rows [1-2] for a triple selvage/i-cord.

Tutorial

(To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab)

Right Side Row

Wrong Side Row

The result

The front of the work:

How to Knita Perfect Edge

The back of the work:

How to Knit a Perfect Edge

As you can see both sides are equally neat and even. One more thing to remember – if you are adding this edging to a scarf, for example, don’t forget to add 4 (for a double one) or 6 (for a triple one) extra stitches to your stitch count.

I hope you will find this tutorial useful for many of your future projects!


UPDATE

I gathered most commonly asked question in the comments and in the emails and tried to answer them in the best way possible – I created an additional blog post for it (How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off). I am copying my answers here, so you can have everything in one place.

  • What stitch pattern can I use the i-cord edge with?

Basically, you can use it with ANY stitch pattern. But I would say that the i-cord looks the best next to the textured stitch patterns.

When used next to the stockinette stitch, there are some things to keep in mind.

  • The icord won’t stand out as much against the stockinette as it does against the textured stitches.
  • If knit too tight, it might start pulling the stockinette fabric. Make sure to swatch before you use it on a bigger project. If you see that the i-cord is puling the fabric, you will have to watch your tension more carefully and make i-cord stitches longer than the ones in the main fabric.
  • The edge will stop the rolling of the fabric, but you might have to adjust the number of stitches in the i-cord. Thinner yarns will require more stitches to keep the edge in place, with thicker yarns 3-st i-cord selvage might be enough. The only thing to know for sure what works best for you is to make a swatch.

The i-cord would look and behave perfectly with garter stitch, brioche stitch or any slip stitch textured pattern.

  • How many extra stitches to add to the stitch count?

Though I mentioned it in the main tutorial post, I still got some questions, so I decided to cover this question in a more detailed way.

For 2-st I-cord selvage you will add 4 extra stitches to your stitch count. For 3-st I-cord selvage you will add 6 extra stitches to you stitch count.

So, if you have the pattern, let’s say, for the garter stitch scarf that tells you to cast on 60 sts and you want to add the 2-st i-cord selvage to it, you will cast on 64 sts and if you are adding 3-st i-cord selavage, you will cast on 66 sts.

  • How to add the i-cord selvage to the cardigan bands?

This question cannot be covered in one post. If you are an experienced knitter and can easily modify patterns, here are some tips that can help you:

  • You can use the i-cord selvage only when the bands are knit simultaneously with the body or if the bands are knit separately and then sewn on the body of the cardigan.
  • If the stitches for the pattern are being picked up and the band is knit perpendicular to the main body of the cardigan, then you should use the i-cord bind off technique.

If you are more confident with following the pattern, The Choice is the knit that uses the i-cord selvage technique when the band is knit simultaneously with the body of the cardigan.

  • Do you slip stitches knitwise or purlwise?

The stitches are supposed to be slipped always purlwise.

  • How to use the i-cord edge when changing colors?

This question cannot be covered in a couple of sentences, I will make sure to create a separate tutorial for it!

  • How to use the i-cord edge with the ribbing?

The i-cord edge is perfect for using with ribbing patterns! As a matter of fact, I have used it in all my patterns with the split ribbing edge. You can find it in different variations in Journey, Ivy, Mohair Flor and The Edge.

How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing.

You can check the tutorial for the selvage i-cord + ribbing here – How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off

  • How to bind off the i-cord edge?

Binding off the i-cord is not much different as binding off in pattern any other stitch. For a photo tutorial see this post – How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off


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By | 2018-04-08T08:47:10+00:00 April 17th, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Tutorial|131 Comments

131 Comments

  1. Zeta April 17, 2016 at 10:17 am - Reply

    Love love love all your tutorials!
    So well written and useful!
    Thank you so much for all the new knowledge!
    You’re the best teacher 😉

    • Alina April 18, 2016 at 5:52 am - Reply

      Thank you so much, Zeta! I am glad you find them helpful 🙂

      • Carole January 9, 2017 at 11:26 am - Reply

        Hi, Alina,
        I just found your post and this is almost identical to the edge I came up with this summer. Great minds! Anyway, thank-you. You wrote it out so much better than I did and hopefully I can remember it and teach it much better with the use of your notes. Excellent!

  2. Tracey April 17, 2016 at 10:31 am - Reply

    I am going to bookmark this post so it will always be handy, it is wonderful and so are you!

  3. pat April 17, 2016 at 3:41 pm - Reply

    Excellent post. I’m going to practice this and use it in future knitting. Thanks!

  4. sustainablemum April 18, 2016 at 4:04 am - Reply

    I have used this a few times in projects it’s great isn’t it!

    • Alina April 18, 2016 at 5:54 am - Reply

      It is! I am using it right now in one of my current projects and I love it!

  5. Andrea @ This Knitted Life April 18, 2016 at 11:41 am - Reply

    Perfect timing as I am working on my button band. Will this work with a 2×2 rib, do you think?

    • Alina April 19, 2016 at 6:37 am - Reply

      Yes, it will! Make sure that the purl is right next to this edge – it will create a beautiful contrast and won’t interrupt the pattern .

  6. Julie April 18, 2016 at 3:51 pm - Reply

    that looks so fantastic, so crisp and clean! I’ll be pinning this for sure.

    • Alina April 19, 2016 at 6:38 am - Reply

      Thank you, Julie! Glad you like it!

  7. steph April 18, 2016 at 6:42 pm - Reply

    wonderful! thanks for sharing….i’m definitely going to use this!

    • Alina April 19, 2016 at 6:38 am - Reply

      Great! Happy to hear that! 🙂

  8. Becki April 19, 2016 at 12:12 am - Reply

    I have Pinned this for future reference, Alina. Your photos are great and your knitting is so perfect. :^)

    • Alina April 19, 2016 at 6:38 am - Reply

      Thank you so much, Becki!

  9. Mimi @ Sweet Sassafras April 19, 2016 at 10:36 am - Reply

    This is a wonderful tutorial! I can’t wait to try this out.

    • Alina April 20, 2016 at 6:25 am - Reply

      Thank you so much! Hope you will be able to use in many projects!

  10. Annie April 19, 2016 at 10:49 am - Reply

    Isn’t that something! That’s a really neat (as in “nice,” yes, but also as in “tidy-looking”) solution for edges. I’m not working on anything now that really could benefit from it, but you can bet I’ll be coming back here for the tutorial as soon as I do.

    Come to think of it, besides the time-saving and neatness, this technique would build a good hardy edge onto a dishcloth, wouldn’t it?

    • Alina April 20, 2016 at 6:28 am - Reply

      Oh, absolutely! It is perfect for dishcloths or blankets for example, when you just want a mindless knit and don’t want to bother with the finishing later. Just start with the ribbing using these selvages (they will blur in perfectly with the rib pattern) and then continue in any pattern (I would use trip;e selvage for the blanket). So, when you are done – you are DONE! No picking up stitches along the edges and the fabric will be flat and neat!

      • Dorothy December 27, 2016 at 3:09 pm - Reply

        Don’t under stand it sorry would love to know it because it looked lovely.Dorothy

  11. Evelyn April 20, 2016 at 1:02 pm - Reply

    Lovely clear tutorial. I’ve used this technique on a baby bonnet pattern before but had forgotten about it. Thank you for the reminder 🙂

    • Alina April 23, 2016 at 6:14 am - Reply

      Thank you, Evelyn! I am glad you are going to use this technique again!

      • Beth July 7, 2016 at 12:28 pm - Reply

        I just love your tutorial help, I’ve been knitting for years an you have helped me so much.t. Thank You so much

        • Alina July 8, 2016 at 3:33 pm - Reply

          Thank YOU, Beth! I am happy it helped!

  12. Brenda J Human June 16, 2016 at 7:07 am - Reply

    Evelyn, thank you so much, I am so grateful for the Internet and Pinterest for allowing me the privilege of learning from all you experts. I’ve been knitting for many of my 69 years but never had so many opportunities to learn to perfect my garments as I have now. It’s great to be part of the beautiful creative world. Brenda, Johannesburg, South Africa.

    • Alina June 17, 2016 at 7:34 am - Reply

      Hello Brenda!! Thank you so much, for these wonderful words!! Internet is an amazing place, isn’t?! I am also very grateful for the opportunity to meet so many interesting and creative people!

  13. Maria Ines Cordeiro June 18, 2016 at 7:30 am - Reply

    I love your neat knitting and finishing tecniques ! Congratulations ! And would also love to recieve your “lessons” by email, please !
    And if you ever come to Uruguay, South America, we will be happy to show you around our Reserve.
    Take a look at the website.
    Regards,
    Maria Ines

    • Alina June 19, 2016 at 7:36 am - Reply

      Thank you so much, Maria! You can subscribe to the blog via email in the side bar. I visited your website and it looks gorgeous!!! I would love to visit it one day, thank you so much for your generous offer!!

  14. Sue June 23, 2016 at 11:51 pm - Reply

    I sent the link to this to everyone in my knitting class. It appears that it will also stop the rolling that you usually get with stockinette. One question though. Do I need to cast on extra stitches for this technique?

    • Alina June 24, 2016 at 4:28 am - Reply

      Hi Sue! Thank you so much for spreading the word! Yes, it will stop rolling. A couple of things to remember with the stockinette though. The edge will be neat, but won’t stand out as much as against texture; stockinette will have a row gauge slightly bigger than the edge, so to avoid pulling the fabric you need to knit this i-cord slightly looser than usual. Yes you need to cast on extra stitches – “One more thing to remember – if you are adding this edging to a scarf, for example, don’t forget to add 4 (for a double one) or 6 (for a triple one) extra stitches to your stitch count.” I hope it helped!

  15. Marie Hawkins July 1, 2016 at 7:19 am - Reply

    Can you tell I’d you use this technique only on button bands of a sweater and if so do I add stitches like recommended for scarf or just use the number of stitches required for button band and add to fronts in lieu of knitting separate bands.

    • Alina July 1, 2016 at 7:34 pm - Reply

      Hi Marie! Ok, I need some more information to answer your question…
      “Do I add stitches like recommended for scarf or just use the number of stitches required for button band and add to fronts in lieu of knitting separate bands.” As I understand (correct me if I am wrong), you want to create faux I-cord in place of a separate button band? What do you mean by a separate band – the one that you knit from picked up stitches along the edge (so the button band stitches are perpendicular to the fronts)? Or the one that you knit separately and then seam it to the fronts (the button band stitches are parallel to the fronts)? I am asking because it will make a difference in how you calculate your mods.
      If you want to skip knitting the band, you will have to make sure that the fronts of the cardigan will still have the same width or otherwise they will be of different size, which means that you will have to calculate how many more stitches you need to add to the fronts. It sounds so much more complicated than it is actually is… To help you with that I need to know your gauge. It is hard to explain in one short comment…
      Feel free to send photos of your project at my email, so I will have a clear idea what you mean and help you with that.

  16. Gail Bresser July 2, 2016 at 5:13 am - Reply

    What a neat Idea! It looks like a sturdy edge good for blankets. I am definitely pinning this one for future reference. Thanks!

    • Alina July 3, 2016 at 9:44 am - Reply

      Thank you so much, Gail! I am glad you like it! This technique is amazing for blankets! You can just knit away and not worry about trimming the raw edges once you are done!

  17. Sandy July 9, 2016 at 6:04 pm - Reply

    Hello,
    I love the look of this type of edging. Do I need to add the extra stitches to the cast on row to accommodate for it? (2 or 3 stitches at each end depending on which edge I want to do). This is not listed anywhere. Thank you for your response.

    Fellow Knitter

    • Alina July 9, 2016 at 6:59 pm - Reply

      Hi Sandy! Yes, you add extra stitches to your stitch count. 2 sts at each end for a double selvage = total of 4 extra sts to your stitch count; 3 sts at each end for a triple selvage = total of 6 extra sts to your stitch count. For example, your pattern says to cast on 40 sts for a scarf; if you choose to use triple selvage you will cast on 46 sts. I hope it helped! 🙂

  18. maria jesus July 10, 2016 at 9:08 pm - Reply

    I love it, Beautiful hint thank you so much!

    • Alina July 12, 2016 at 1:26 pm - Reply

      You are very welcome, Maria!

  19. Granny July 12, 2016 at 1:21 pm - Reply

    Do you slip as to knit or slip as to purl?

    • Alina July 12, 2016 at 1:31 pm - Reply

      Thank you for the question! Slip as if to PURL. Slipped stitched should NOT be twisted. I hope it helped!

  20. Barbara July 28, 2016 at 5:43 pm - Reply

    I wish I had seen this sooner! I am doing a long simple lace weight stockinette stitch cowl and this would be wonderful for the edges. Oh well, there’s always next time! But thank you for the wonderful tutorial and instructions. I am bookmarking this for sure.

    • Alina August 7, 2016 at 11:37 pm - Reply

      Thank you, Barbara! I am glad you like it!!

  21. Jodi August 4, 2016 at 5:36 pm - Reply

    Any advice for the left edge (RS)? It comes out much looser than the right edge and I can’t manage to get it to match the right…

    • Alina August 7, 2016 at 11:40 pm - Reply

      Hello, Jodi! On the left edge we purl the last stitch. Some knitters tend to purl looser than knit. Maybe this is the problem? Try to check and adjust your tension on this side each time. Let me know if it helped!

      • Anna April 7, 2017 at 7:49 pm - Reply

        I am having this same issue. Adjusted tension with no success 🙁

  22. Terri August 10, 2016 at 8:59 am - Reply

    I like the finished look but I don’t understand how to make the button holes with this finish if it replacing button bands?

    • Alina August 17, 2016 at 12:34 am - Reply

      Hi Terri! I usually make open cardis, but you can make button holes with yarn overs.

  23. Marc August 13, 2016 at 4:28 am - Reply

    What a greattutorial! Thanks!
    Another way to do the triple selvedge, is to do the same on all rows. This will also eliminate the risk of having one side come out looser than the other:4
    First three stitches: Knit 1, Slip 1, Knit 1
    Last three stitches: Slip 1, Knit 1, Slip 1.
    (All slips are made purlwise with yarn in front)

    Regards
    Marc

    • Alina August 17, 2016 at 12:34 am - Reply

      Thank you so much, Marc, for this great addition!!! I really appreciate it!

  24. Francese M Mills August 28, 2016 at 4:27 am - Reply

    Hello, Just came across your blog while I was browsing and I love your tutorial and all the comments.
    I wonder, is there a book with all your blogs? ….is ” 48 thoughts on Knitting a Perfect Edge A Free Technique”
    a book title or the title of your blog……if there isn’t a book, have you considered publishing one with all your
    tutorials? I love hard copy. Thanks much

    • Alina August 30, 2016 at 5:13 pm - Reply

      Hi Francese! I am glad you liked this tutorial. No, I don’t have a book with the tutorials. Maybe one day, you never know, right? 🙂

  25. Vanessa September 7, 2016 at 3:19 pm - Reply

    Hello Alina
    Many thanks for sharing this! Very helpful for me. I have made my first i-cord thanks to you!! Vanessa

    • Alina September 9, 2016 at 8:35 am - Reply

      Yay!! So happy to heart that, Vanessa!

  26. Nathalie September 26, 2016 at 2:57 pm - Reply

    Hi… I have made my self a poncho, it’s already done but the edge of the knitting keeps rolling in…I was wandering if you can help me with that, since the stitchs are all close…Could you help me with that….Please…
    I’m not so good with my english, I hope that you understand what i’m trying too explain here….hihihiih
    Thank you….
    Nat.

    • Alina September 27, 2016 at 5:45 pm - Reply

      Hi Nathalie! Of course, I will try to help as much as I can!! If you prefer, we can do it via email (alina@giftofknitting.com) where you can attach the photos if necessary! First of all, let me ask you if you blocked your garment properly? What yarn weight and fiber content did you use? Which selvedge did you use – double or triple? Please, let me know and I will try to see what we can do!

  27. Sue September 30, 2016 at 8:58 pm - Reply

    Hi! Thanks for the tutorial. I have a question. When you slip a stitch, do you slip it as if to knit or as if to purl? Thanks!

    • Alina October 2, 2016 at 8:13 pm - Reply

      Hi Sue! As if to purl. Stitches should NOT be twisted.

  28. therese parent October 3, 2016 at 8:49 am - Reply

    Love your tutorial easy to understand

  29. Doris October 4, 2016 at 9:54 am - Reply

    Can I print this instruction off please

    • Alina October 5, 2016 at 7:51 am - Reply

      Hi Doris! Of course, you can print this tutorial for your own personal use.

  30. Quynh October 5, 2016 at 10:49 pm - Reply

    Hi Alina,

    I have had this bookmarked for the longest time and now would like to use it but wondered if you could give me some advice. I am knitting a bottom-up sweater with a 2 x 2 rib bottom edge, and am planning to use a provisional CO, then come back to the ribbing at the end and knit a split hem, with the 2 stitch selvedge you have suggested.

    I’m wondering – in integrating the selvedge into the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern on the RS, should I do [2 st selvedge], K2, P2….K2, [2st selvedge], or is the selvedge better worked after a single K stitch?

    I hope this makes sense!

    Thank you x

    • Quynh October 6, 2016 at 2:25 am - Reply

      Actually, my bigger question is this:

      When using an i-cord edge (whether it is 2 stitches or 3), how do you treat these selvedge stitches when it comes time to bind off? For example, if I am knitting a split hem on a sweater, in ribbing, and I am using the 2 stitch i-cord selvedge, then when I come to my tubular bind-off, how do I neatly account for the extra stitches?

      • Alina October 8, 2016 at 6:31 am - Reply

        Hi Quynh! Thank you for your questions!

        “I’m wondering – in integrating the selvedge into the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern on the RS, should I do [2 st selvedge], K2, P2….K2, [2st selvedge], or is the selvedge better worked after a single K stitch?”

        I would do the following on the RS: [2 st selvedge], P2, K2….K2, P2 [2st selvedge]. Purl sts look better next to the i-cord selvage, because the contrast is much more profound than next to the knit sts. Plus, it will create a beautiful symmetry, as the i-cord will look like a part of the 2×2 rib pattern.

        “When using an i-cord edge (whether it is 2 stitches or 3), how do you treat these selvedge stitches when it comes time to bind off? For example, if I am knitting a split hem on a sweater, in ribbing, and I am using the 2 stitch i-cord selvedge, then when I come to my tubular bind-off, how do I neatly account for the extra stitches?”

        I always bind off in pattern, that is to say I knit the selvedges as established and cast them off.
        For example, 2 st selvedge.
        (RS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, pass the first st on the needle (the slipped one) over the second st on the needle; continue binding off as usual up to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyib, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch, p1, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch.

        3-st selvedge:
        RS: Sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, pass the first st on the needle (the first slipped one) over the second st on the needle (the second slipped one), k1 pass the first st on the needle over the second st on the needle; continue binding off as usual up to last 3 sts; k1, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch, sl 1 wyif, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch, p1, pass the previous st over the slipped stitch.

        I hope it makes sense to you 🙂 It looks way more complicated than it is actually is in knitting 🙂

  31. Roberta October 12, 2016 at 10:46 am - Reply

    Hi, thank you for sharing this technique! I would like to use it instead of i-cord selvedge on my garter stitch shawl, because I think it will be stretchier, and I’m wondering if you know of a bind-off that gives a similar look. Thanks in advance 🙂

  32. Elisabeth Huellstrung October 17, 2016 at 5:36 pm - Reply

    I want to thank you ever so much for sharing this post!!!! I can do skilled projects but my awful edges hold me back. I can’t wait to try this!

    Blessing Liz

    • Alina October 17, 2016 at 5:42 pm - Reply

      Thank YOU for visiting, Elisabeth! Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll be happy to help!

  33. Mammothy October 25, 2016 at 1:47 pm - Reply

    Thank you so much for sharing this technique. I am using it for the button band of my Honeycomb Aran Cardigan. I find that it is for some odd reason shorter than it is supposed to be. (although these are technically selvage stitches, double height). And I wonder if it is possible to make a 4stitch or 5 stitch “i-cord” as well?
    Find me on Ravelry

    • Alina October 29, 2016 at 8:56 am - Reply

      Thank YOU for visiting! Yes! It is possible! I am using 4-st I-cord right now for a cardigan. Once you understand the principle, you can experiment with the number. Also the number of sts will depend on the yarn you use, some yarns will look great with 2 sts, some need 4 or even 6 sts. I will find you on Ravelry!!

      • Mammothy December 18, 2016 at 1:31 pm - Reply

        My Honeycomb Aran Cardigan is finished and is looking GREAT with the i-Cord border.
        I would recommend using 5 or 6 stitches for larger projects.

        • Mammothy December 18, 2016 at 1:35 pm - Reply

          I actually changed the instructions a bit 🙂
          k, s1purwise,k,s1purwise TURN k,s1purwise, purl
          for more stitches that would be
          (pattern) s1purwise, k, s1purwise, k, s1purwise TURN k, s1purwise, k, s1purwise, k (pattern)
          I used this technique to make a proper i-cord for the little hat for my son (also on my ravelry profile).

          • Alina December 19, 2016 at 6:38 pm

            Thank you so much for this extra info!! I just took a look at your cardi – it’s really beautiful and so well-documented! I hope you will use this technique in many of your projects!

  34. Johanne December 18, 2016 at 8:53 am - Reply

    I am new to knitting and am very interested in learning this technique so thank you for sharing. I have a basic question. Do you replace the first and end stitches of the pattern with your pattern or do you add stitches on both the beginning and end of the project?

    • Alina December 19, 2016 at 6:48 pm - Reply

      Hello, Johanne! Thank you for visiting! That’s a great question. It depends on the pattern. In 90% cases I do add stitches to my stitch count, because an i-cord looks good with almost all stitch patterns. But if the pattern has its own “border”/edge, I don’t want to “overload” it and would substitute it with the i-cord edge – in this case make sure that the width of the piece won’t be affected dramatically. Hope it helped!

    • Barb April 24, 2017 at 10:10 am - Reply

      I see you said that you cast on extra stitches, so does that mean you add 2 extra or 4 extra?

    • Barb April 24, 2017 at 10:17 am - Reply

      I see that you said you add stitches to the stitch count for the icord, my question is how many? Do you add 2 extra or 4 extra?

  35. gentry December 18, 2016 at 11:53 am - Reply

    I came across your tutorial and it is perfect! I am making a blanket for my daughter and thought i would use the triple, but I wanted to ask first if you thought it would work since the blanket has several color changes?
    thanks! love your work.

    • Alina December 19, 2016 at 6:53 pm - Reply

      Thank you so much for the feedback! You can use this technique with colors, but the i-cord will end up covered in stripes. It’s the personal preference, of course, but usually I-cord is used to visually “frame” the work and stand out. When covered in stripes, it will get “lost” a little bit, if you know what I mean… But! It will still do the job of keeping your work from rolling in. Try it on a small swatch and you can decide whether you like it or not.
      A little note: Change the color AFTER the first slipped stitch.
      Hope it helped 🙂

  36. sara December 26, 2016 at 1:41 pm - Reply

    Thanks so much for sharing your technique. I am always looking for ways to make my edges look nicer and this is perfect.
    I read all the comments to see if you addressed this but could not find any so my question is, since i knit a lot of dishcloths is there any way to work the cast on and cast off rows to duplicate the i cord look or do i just have to go back and do an I cord after completed so that all 4 edges match?

  37. Julie January 23, 2017 at 7:46 am - Reply

    At last I’ve found the correct method! Just spent 48hrs trying to get my 2 edging stiches right. Thank you!

    • Alina January 23, 2017 at 8:56 am - Reply

      I am glad it helped, Julie!!!

  38. Robyn February 7, 2017 at 1:07 pm - Reply

    I really like how you show people how to knit, would you mind sharing my blog with other people please?

    • Alina February 10, 2017 at 9:12 am - Reply

      Thank you, Robyn! You can always comment on any post and live a direct link to your website!!! I will definitely take a look at it!

  39. Elly February 10, 2017 at 12:03 am - Reply

    HI Alina,
    I was so excited by this technique that looks so lovely. I have tried and tried to follow the instructions, and my swatch does show the I-cord on the front, but not the back! Don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I always slip the first stitch straight off but can’t get the yarn to the back until after it is slipped off. So I don’t understand that part. I’m really stumped. Can you help me? I’d love to be able to do this. Thanks a lot.

    • Alina February 10, 2017 at 9:20 am - Reply

      Hi Elly! Do you mind telling me, please, which stitch pattern you are using next to it and what yarn weight? Sometimes the i-cord doesn’t stand out that much against the main stitch pattern, if the yarn is too thin or doesn’t have enough stitch definition.

      As for slipping the stitch – the yarn position for the first slipped stitch of the row is not that important, the only thing you should be careful is – not to twist the slipped stitch. Also try to knit the i-cord stitch pretty tight to “pull” them together. Also for how many rows have you tried it? The i-cord starts showing after several rows in knitting.

      Please, let me know how it worked out – you can also send me the photos of your work at alina@giftofknitting.com – this way it will be easier to see what is wrong!

      Hope it helped!!

      • Elly February 11, 2017 at 8:43 am - Reply

        Hi Alina, Garter Stitch, Worsted Weight, stitches very evident. Slip stitch not twisted. I will carry on with swatch, trying to pull the i-cord stitch tighter. Right now the cord works on the front, but nothing shows at the back. If still not successful, I’ll send you photos. Thanks for working with me!

      • Elly February 11, 2017 at 9:16 am - Reply

        Still trying. Not sure about one instruction.
        At the end of row 2 [sl 1 wyif, p1] do I slip 1 (note, my working yarn is at back) then bring yarn forward and purl 1? Or do I bring yarn forward, slip 1, and purl 1?

        • Mammothy February 12, 2017 at 2:40 pm - Reply

          Hi Elly,

          maybe a little diagram will help:
          s – slip K – knit
          sKsKsK are the last 6 stitches on your needle from right to left.
          turn
          now knit: KsKsKs from left to right (or knit the upper diagram from right to left).
          You are basically knitting a lot of salvage stitches, so keep them very loose!

          I hope this helps. You can of course remove or add any number of sK combinations.

          • Alina February 13, 2017 at 6:29 pm

            Thank you so much for joining! But I am confused a little bit, haha 🙂 As far as I understand Elly is using the double selvedge, so there are just two stitches for an i-cord on each side.
            “sKsKsK are the last 6 stitches” – why there are 6? Sorry if I misunderstood 🙂

        • Alina February 13, 2017 at 6:24 pm - Reply

          Hi Elly! Sorry for a tardy reply. Sl 1 wyif means “slip one stitch with yarn in FRONT”, which means that you bring yarn forward, then slip 1, and then purl . Try to open the photos in full size in the new tab – there you should see all the details. And again, feel free to write me an email with photos.

  40. Ali February 11, 2017 at 5:15 am - Reply

    Thank you! This is wonderful!

  41. Teresa February 20, 2017 at 10:25 am - Reply

    Would love to receive your posts.

    • Alina February 22, 2017 at 7:18 am - Reply

      Hi Teresa! Thank you so much! You can subscribe to the blog by email – it’s in the side bar.

  42. Melissa February 21, 2017 at 5:58 am - Reply

    This looks great! I am relatively new to knitting, and I expect I will find d this very helpful! Very clear instructions and images.

    • Alina February 22, 2017 at 7:17 am - Reply

      Thank you, Melissa! Let me know, if you have any questions!

  43. Rosa helena arango February 22, 2017 at 2:27 pm - Reply

    Gracias lo podrían traducir al espanol

  44. Anna April 3, 2017 at 12:13 am - Reply

    Thank you, Alina! What a beautiful edge! I am soon starting a shawl project, so I found you just in time! I was even more lucky to see your answer to someone else, on how to make it four-sided!
    I have one question though, in your example pieces the work seem to be purled on both sides. How is that done?

  45. Sandra Drouin April 16, 2017 at 7:51 pm - Reply

    Exactly what I was looking for!!!! Thank you for all your wonderful work.

  46. Erin Ambrose April 27, 2017 at 10:27 am - Reply

    Hi there! I’m wondering if you think this would work with Linen stitch & this may be a stupid question – but do you add the 2 extra stitches on each side to your cast on quantity?

  47. Die Spinne May 3, 2017 at 10:51 pm - Reply

    Love this tutorial! Thank you!

  48. Vickie May 23, 2017 at 12:49 pm - Reply

    Hi Alina. Wonderful tutorial and thank you so much. Currently I’m working the button band of a cardi and I was wondering how I would make a buttonhole. It would be a matter of maybe knitting a couple of rows of the i cord and then re-attaching it to the side. But I was wondering if you had any tips for doing it?

    Once again thank you so much for the tutorial. Your pictures are so clear and you explain it perfectly! I’ve bookmarked your site, it’s just lovely.

  49. Phyllis Smith June 9, 2017 at 7:27 pm - Reply

    I have knitted an 18″ doll evening gown with train. If I pick up stitches on the bottom of the gown and train, would you suggest using your finishing stitches to keep the bottom from rolling?

  50. Maggie June 21, 2017 at 1:01 pm - Reply

    I came across your knitting page this morning whilst searching the net for info to help me with my knitting due to a medical problem that has developed. I have arthritis and my tension has changed (its looser than usual), its been so frustrating to have my knitting looking droopy and messy, this method has certainly helped me with the edging of my garments. Thank you very much.

  51. kay October 21, 2017 at 7:55 am - Reply

    I stumbled across your blog and have learned SO much,
    Now I’m trying to sign to receive your blog, but keep getting error message
    Can you please help me sign up

  52. kay October 21, 2017 at 7:57 am - Reply

    Below is the message I am receiving

    The email address has opted out of subscription emails.
    You can manage your preferences at subscribe.wordpress.com

  53. Helen Mays October 22, 2017 at 9:04 am - Reply

    This is lovely. how can this be used to carry yarn for stripes. My edges look crazy luckly I,m just starting my project and I dont have a problem restarting if I should do the 3 stitch Icord edge.
    Thanks
    Helen
    Stchntyme on Ravelry

    • Moira Brauer November 14, 2017 at 8:43 pm - Reply

      Wow, I wish I’d found this sooner! So I’ve just finished a striped chevon baby blanket and wonder if now I could stop edges from rolling even with just main colour. What do you think?? Thanking you in anticipation.

    • Mammothy January 25, 2018 at 6:28 am - Reply

      I’m sure you could make the yarn run through the ‘pipe’… never occurred to me 🙂 I may try it sometime. Find me on ravelry.

  54. Niamh November 5, 2017 at 10:54 am - Reply

    Hi, this is the best tutorial I have found for the icord. However I wanted to ask, should the slip be done knit wise? And I assume I’m moving the thread to the back to knit? I’m new to knitting so need that little extra help.

    • Mammothy January 25, 2018 at 6:25 am - Reply

      For all slip stitches keep the yarn in FRONT of the slipped purl stitch. Slip them purlwise, because they will be knitted on the way back

  55. Moira Brauer November 14, 2017 at 8:42 pm - Reply

    Wow, I wish I’d found this sooner! So I’ve just finished a striped chevon baby blanket and wonder if now I could stop edges from rolling even with just main colour. What do you think?? Thanking you in anticipation.

  56. Heather Baird November 21, 2017 at 12:16 am - Reply

    This is really helpful, it’s made a beautiful edge. Question, if I am working increases at the selvedge edge, what would you think is the best increase stitch? I’m trying to get the left and right edges looking the same. I can get the right side increase looking pretty good but the left side is not great.

    • Mammothy January 25, 2018 at 6:21 am - Reply

      Work the increases before the border stitches. They will look great.

  57. Karen E McGrath December 16, 2017 at 9:38 am - Reply

    LOVE this finished edge!! Thank you so much. I didn’t read all the way to the end, and was wondering about cast offs. Frogged the work and added on the 4 stitches.
    It looks so clean.

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  59. Teresa January 18, 2018 at 8:14 am - Reply

    Should I add extra cast on stitches if I am making a baby blanket?

    • Mammothy January 25, 2018 at 6:20 am - Reply

      Add 2 stiches per edge for a smaller border, or if the border should be totally separate from the design, add 4 to 6 stitches

  60. Liz January 24, 2018 at 1:30 pm - Reply

    Would one or both work for a afghan? The pattern that I am following is a wrap and not a blanket, but technically has an edge to it already, would I just add on of these to it or do you think I should change it? It is the Natural Leaf Wrap on Ravelry.

    • Mammothy January 25, 2018 at 6:18 am - Reply

      It works for ANY knitted edge. Look me up on ravelry to see the cardigan I made, using this edge for the button bar

  61. Liz January 25, 2018 at 12:40 pm - Reply

    Got it. For a blanket which would you suggest? the double or triple? Or would either work?

    • Mammothy January 26, 2018 at 8:17 am - Reply

      Knit a small sample with one size on one end and the other on the other end. Then you can decide which size fits your project and yarn best.

  62. Elaine February 2, 2018 at 1:47 pm - Reply

    I am wondering if this method would work well with a shaker or fisherman rib stitch scarf?

  63. ELaine February 2, 2018 at 1:52 pm - Reply

    I would like to know if this method would work for a Shaker stitch scarf.

  64. Tara Wiley February 6, 2018 at 9:41 pm - Reply

    WHEW! I love to knit it relaxes me but I’m so disgusted by my edges I was ready to give it all up! You saved me….bless you.
    Tara

  65. Liz Franklyn February 10, 2018 at 9:52 am - Reply

    Have always wanted to know how t get a “neat edge” but now at age 82 I know – can you advise me how not to have a “loose stitch” when casting off perhaps you would advise me via my E Mail Thankyou Liz

  66. Bay February 20, 2018 at 3:12 pm - Reply

    Hi! I’m new to knitting and super frustrated by how messy the edges look… This looks SO good, but when I try to follow the instructions, and purl the last stitch on the “right” side, while keeping the yarn in the back, I just get a knot. Isn’t purling requiring the yarn in front? Or do you mean keep it in the back after purling the stitch?

    • Mammothy February 20, 2018 at 10:56 pm - Reply

      I always slip the last stitch and knit the first. Turns out perfectly for me.
      Keep in mind that you are knitting a pipe by skipping those stitches that belong to the other side

  67. evie hammond May 24, 2018 at 10:15 pm - Reply

    It’s common courtesy to mention “slip as if to knit,” or “slip as if to purl.” It can make a huge difference.

    And one thing you didn’t mention or deal with, is the fact that your edging will be shorter than the piece your knitting. Slipping stitches means that for every 2 steps forward, you’re taking one step back, thus leaving the edge shorter and not as stretchy as the rest of the fabric you’re knitting. This can cause serious problems when you’re using anything other than garter stitch, which is sort of accordion pleated.

    The usefulness of this edging is limited, though in the rare cases you can use it, it is a lovely stitch. It’s perfect for an edge where you’re going to be picking up stitches — for example, for a sleeve.

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