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How To Knit A Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Today I would like to share with you a free pattern that I put together for my California Crop TopIt’s a pretty straightforward knit that can become the perfect vacation project, as it doesn’t require much yarn, knits up fast and it’s very easy to make.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

In the simple knit piece as this one, yarn will play the main role. I love the ribbon yarn for this project, because the thread is wide, which is very fast to knit, but because of the nature of the thread, it is very light. Plus, it creates a textured surface, even when used with the simplest stitch patterns.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

As you can see in my previous post, I chose “purl” side as the right side of the fabric, but if you feel like it you can definitely use it as a reversible top and wear it with any side facing up – so many designers use the visible seam as the decorative element now. And at the end of a day, it is a casual crop summer top, it doesn’t have to be perfect 🙂

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

To see the fit of the top, check my modeled post here – The Gift Of Knitting – California Crop WATG Top.

How To Knit A Crop Top

SIZE:

32 (36, 40)” [81.5 (91.5, 101.5) cm]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Finished bust circumference: 34 (38, 42)” [86.5 (96.5, 106.5) cm].

Finished length from the armhole: approx 7 (7 1/4, 7 3/4)” [17.8 (18.4, 19.5) cm].

MATERIALS:

Yarn

3 (4, 4) skeins of Wool and the Gang, Stone Washed, 100% cotton. 1.8 oz. (50 g), 82 yds. (75 m).

Please, keep in mind that the yardage recommended is approximate. 

Needles. 5.5 mm (US 9)

GAUGE

4″ (10 cm) = 12 sts. The row gauge is not essential in this project.

 

BACK

  • CO 51 (57, 63) sts, using a long tail cast on method.
  • *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
  • Repeat the last row 4 more times.
  • Next Row (RS): Purl.
  • Next Row (WS): Knit.
  • Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures approximately 7 (7 1/4, 7 3/4)” [17.8 (18.4, 19.5) cm], finishing after WS row.
  • Next Row (RS): Bind off 7 (9, 11) sts purlwise; purl to end – 44 (48, 52) sts.
  • Next Row (WS): Bind off 7 (9, 11) sts knitwise; knit to end – 37 (39, 41) sts.
  • Next Row (RS): K1, purl to last st, k1.
  • Next Row (RS): K1, knit to last st, k1.
  • Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures approximately 7 1/2 (7 1/2, 7 3/4)” [19 (19, 19.5) cm], finishing after RS row.
  • Bind off all 37 (39, 41) sts knitwise.

FRONT

  • Make identical to the BACK.

FINISHING

  • Block the pieces.
  • Seam shoulders: Place the pieces flat, with bind off edges facing each other, RS of the fabric (in this case, purl side) facing up. Using a horizontal seam, sew shoulders together (each shoulder is approximately 1 1/2 – 1 3/4″ wide).
  • Seam FRONT and BACK: Place the pieces flat, RS of the fabric (in this case, purl side) facing up, side edges next to each other. Make sure to align the pieces, with armhole edges being on the same level. Using a mattress stitch, sew edges together on both sides.
  • Weave in the ends.

Note: As you can see, I chose “purl” side as the right side of the fabric, but you can flip it over and stay with the classic stockinette stitch – just seam the pieces on reverse, with knit side facing up.

Note: This is a free pattern. It wasn’t test knitted or tech edited. I tried my best to avoid any mistakes, but if you find one, please, let me know in the comments below. 

I hope you will use this pattern this summer and create your own simple Crop Top. If you liked the pattern, please, share it on your Pinterest board, I would really appreciate it!.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Have a wonderful day today!


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By | 2018-01-28T08:44:35+00:00 July 26th, 2017|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Pattern, Tutorial|11 Comments

How To Knit a Simple Baby Hat

How to knit a simple baby hat

Happy Monday! Last week I finished a cute little hat for my friend’s nephew. If you remember, I started with the pattern from “Simple Knits for Cherished Babies”, the pattern is great, but there were two things that weren’t quiet right for my project. First, my gauge was very off, as I was using a completely different yarn and I had to recalculate all the decrease intervals. Second, the pattern offered to knit the hat flat with a seam. Paloma yarn is pretty thick, so the seam would be quiet noticeable and it could be uncomfortable for the baby. So, at the end of the day I ripped off my progress and just quickly calculated my own numbers. This project is very simple and can literally be knit in one afternoon!

How to knit a simple baby hat

How To Knit A Simple Baby Hat

SIZE:

Baby age – 0-3 months.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Finished circumference: approx 13 1/2″ (34 cm)

Finished height: approx 6″ (15 cm) (with the rolled edge).

MATERIALS:

Yarn

Debbie Bliss, Paloma, 60% alpaca, 40% wool. 1.8 oz. (50 g), 71 yds. (65 m) in Silver.

I used approximately half of the skein.

Needles. 6 mm (US 10) circular.

GAUGE

4″ (10 cm) = 13 sts. The round gauge is not essential in this project.

 

  • CO 45 sts, using a long tail cast on method.
  • Making sure not to twist stitches, join the knitting to work in the round using the invisible join – How To Knit The Invisible Join In The Round. – 44 sts left. Place BOR marker.
  • Work even in Stockinette stitch for approx 5 3/4″ (14.5 cm).
  • Dec Rnd: *K2tog; rep from * across to the end of a round – 22 sts.
  • Next Rnd: Knit.
  • Dec Rnd: *K2tog; rep from * across to the end of a round – 11 sts.
  • Next Rnd: Knit.
  • Dec Rnd: *K2tog; rep from * across to one st, k1 – 6 sts.
  • Finish a hat, following the step-by-step tutorial How to Finish a Hat below.
  • Weave in ends.

 

How to Finish a Hat

If you need to see a bigger image, open it in the new tab.

After all decreases you have 6 sts left.

How to knit a simple baby hat

I love the simplicity of this hat! It’s also a great project for your leftover precious yarn that is too good not to put in use.

How to knit a simple baby hat

I hope you enjoyed this little project, please share on your Pinterest board to come back to it again 🙂

How to knit a simple baby hat

Have a wonderful week!


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By | 2018-01-23T09:26:31+00:00 June 12th, 2017|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|9 Comments

I-cord Bind Off In The Round. Sleeve.

Today I want to share with you an i-cord bind off when knitting in the round tutorial that I created specially for the sleeves of The Choice Cardigan (coming at the beginning of November!!!). But you can use it with any pattern, even if instructions are completely different!

I-cord Bind Off In The Round. Sleeve.

How To Knit I-Cord Bind Off In The Round

Abbreviations:

  • BOR – beginning of the round.
  • st(s) – stitch(es).
  • RH – right hand.
  • LH – left hand.
  • ssk – slip, slip, knit.
  • k2tog – knit two together.
  • tbl – through back loop.

To see a bigger photo open it in the new tab

Here is the link to a video tutorial how to graft live i-cord sts and cast on i-cord sts – Grafting I-Cord Bind Off. The video is silent, but in my opinion is very clear.

I hope you’ll find this mini-tutorial useful! As always, feel free to post any questions in the comments.

Have a wonderful Sunday!


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By | 2017-08-01T07:58:12+00:00 October 23rd, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|19 Comments

How To Pick Up Stitches for the Raglan Sleeve and Avoid Holes in the Underarm

how-to-pick-up-stitches-for-raglan-sleeve-without-holes-1-10-16-14

Happy Sunday, dear friends! Today I decided to show you my little trick that I use to avoid holes in the underarm when picking up stitches for the raglan sleeve. When I knit my first raglan, I religiously followed the pattern instructions, which said to pick up cast on stitches in the underarm and at the end to sew small holes. I did sew the holes, but every once in awhile the sewed in holes become holes again. I struggled a lot with them and thought there had to be a way to avoid these holes altogether and not bother closing them up after you are done knitting. After experimenting I came up with the solution that I now use every single time when knitting the raglan. It never failed me once! I hope you will find it helpful as well and will get rid of these pesky underarm holes once and for all.

At first let’s see what happens when you pick up stitches the “traditional” way. Usually when you divide the body and sleeves, you are instructed to cast on x number of stitches between the front and the back. For example, the instructions would look something like this:

Body and Sleeves Separating: Work front xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work back xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work front xxx sts.

When you are done with the body, you usually get back to the sleeves. This is how it looks like, more or less. You can see the little “knobs” on each of 6 cast on stitch.

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

This what usually happens next, if you follow the instructions.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s see how we can avoid it altogether. I am going to use the yarn in the contrasting color for demonstration purposes.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

We can’t just continue working in the round as usual, because we have 8 extra sts on the needles and it will drastically change the size of the sleeve. So, we need one more step before we can continue our sleeve as usual.

After you picked up all the stitches needed, continue knitting the first round:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

In order to come back to the instructed 6 underarm stitches, we need to decrease all the extra sts on the next round.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s knit a couple of rounds and take a look at the underarm:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

Ta-daaam! No holes! And the number of sts is exactly the same as indicated in the pattern instructions! You can use this little trick with any raglan sleeve instructions. Important to remember: there is no certain rule how many extra sts need to be picked up. The number of picked up extra sts can vary – sometimes you need 4, sometimes 5, sometimes just 2 is enough. You will have to watch your fabric and see if all the holes/gaps are closed. And always decrease all the extra sts to come to the number of sleeve sts indicated in the pattern.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments!


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By | 2017-08-01T07:58:49+00:00 October 2nd, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|33 Comments

Grateful Shawl. Asymmetric Triangular Shawl Free Pattern.

Grateful Shawl

Free Asymmetric Shawl Pattern

My Granny is 70 years old today and I am celebrating here, too far away from her with the free pattern for you! A very simple, but special for me project – Grateful Shawl, made for my Granny back in Russia. I didn’t knit much during my trip, as I felt like I wanted to be 100% with my family and friends, but this simple garter stitch shawl was the perfect companion for long car/train rides, quiet evenings with my family and sleep overs with my girlfriends. I didn’t even notice how I finished it! It stayed with my Granny back in Russia and will remind her of the time we spent together. She recently had a surgery and now is recovering successfully, thus the name of the shawl – Grateful. I am grateful that everything went pretty smoothly, I am grateful for the time we spent together and I am infinitely grateful for her love. She is my true angel.

Project Details

Pattern

The shawl is of classic asymmetric triangular shape. I wrote a quick pattern for it, you are welcome to use it!

Free Asymmetric Shawl Pattern

Yarn

Hawthorne Fingering by Knit PicksI am not really into variegated yarn, being more drawn to solid colors, but once in awhile I crave for fun shades and these skeins were perfect for it! The colors are really nice and two shades complimented each other beautifully; the yarn is light and springy. Having said that, I must admit that I doubt that I will ever knit with this yarn again. Don’t get me wrong – each skein was perfect, but the yarn felt too synthetic to me, maybe it’s 20% of polyamide in the content or the feeling of the superwash wool itself, or maybe I am just too spoiled with all the gorgeous natural fibers I got to work with during the last months, but I didn’t enjoy it running through my fingers. Other than that, it was fun to work with.

Design Details

Shape

Asymmetric triangular shawl. I find this shape one of the most versatile ones and it works great with simple stitches and variegated yarns! Also it is very easy to remember the pattern and knit with “closed” eyes.

Texture

This yarn has a great stitch definition and is perfect for garter – the stitches are perfectly even and pop out.

Free Asymmetric Shawl Pattern


 Asymmetric Shawl Free Pattern

The shawl is knit sideways from the corner with the attached 3-stitch I-cord edge that is knit simultaneously with the main fabric to a create smooth and neat edge and avoid finishing later.

Free Asymmetric Shawl Pattern

MATERIALS

Yarn. 2 skeins of Hawthorne Fingering by Knit PicksThe estimated yardage is approximately 700 yds.

Note: What is great about this shawl is that you can use any yarn from your stash. You can also use less or more yarn for your project. I was basically knitting until both skeins were finished, leaving just enough yarn to bind off. I was alternating the skeins every two rows. You are free to knit in solid color or set up your own stripe sequence – stripes/color blocks, the opportunities are really endless!

Needles. 2.5 mm (US 1).

Note: Again the needle size is very flexible. Just go with the one that is the best fit for your yarn and the fabric you want to create.

GAUGE

20 stitches and 48 rows = 4 inches [10 cm] in garter stitch.

Note: The exact gauge is not essential in this project, the most important thing is that you like the fabric in your swatch. 

SIZE

Note: The shawl is knit from the corner, so you are in full control of its size and can easily adjust it and stop whenever you feel like it.

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES

  • k – knit
  • k2tog – knit two together
  • LH – left hand
  • p – purl
  • RH – right hand
  • RS – right side
  • sl – slip
  • ssk – slip, slip, knit
  • st (sts) – stitch (stitches)
  • WS – wrong side
  • wyib – with yarn in back
  • wyif – with yarn in front
  • yo – yarn over

INSTRUCTIONS 

I am going to walk you through the beginning of the shawl. To see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

The shawl starts with the provisional cast on. There are several ways to do that, you can check this video – Provisional Cast-Ons – and choose your preferred method. I am using Crochet Provisional Cast-On here.

Now you have 9 starting stitches. First and last three sts will create the I-cord edging (see the arrows), the central 3 sts are the starting point of your shawl main body.

Free Asymmetric Shawl Pattern

Now the fun part starts!

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1; yo, knit to last 3 sts; k1, sl 1 wyif, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyif; k2tog, k to last 3 sts, yo; sl 1 wyif, k1, p1.

Repeat Rows 1-2 until the desired depth of the shawl.

When the shawl reaches the desired size, start I-Cord Bind off.

You will get to the point when you have 3 I-cord sts on your RH needle and 3 sts left on your LH needle. Graft these stitches together to “close” the I-cord edging.

Free Asymmetric Shawl Pattern

Weave in all ends. Block the shawl.

Blocking is really essential in this project, don’t skip it! Your shawl will open up and bloom!

You are done!! Enjoy your shawl!

Free Asymmetric Shawl Pattern

Feel free to ask me any questions in the comments!!


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How To Knit a Tuck Stitch. Machine Knitting and Hand Knitting Tutorial.

Happy Monday!

How was your weekend? I hope you had a wonderful time and ready to start a new week!

As you know, I am working on a textured sweater – Sand – on my knitting machine. Today I would love to show you how the tuck stitch is formed on the machine and for those who don’t have a knitting machine, I prepared a tutorial for hand knit tuck stitch.

How To Knit a Tuck Stitch On a Knitting Machine

I am using Silver Reed LK150 machine; if you have a different machine some things might be different, but the principle stays the same.

Instructions

Before you start knitting a tuck stitch, knit a couple of rows in simple stockinette. Let’s start with the carriage on your RIGHT side.

Carriage settings. Side Levers – triangle. Russel levers – I.

  • Row 1: Starting from the THIRD needle, push every 4th needle into D position. Knit one row.
  • Row 2-3: Knit.
  • Row 4: The carriage is on your left. Change the settings: Side Levers – triangle. RIGHT Russel lever – II. Knit one row.
  • Row 5: Side Levers – triangle. Russel levers – I. Starting from the FIFTH needle, push every 4th needle into D position. Knit one row.
  • Row 6-7: Knit.
  • Row 8: The carriage is on your left. Change the settings: Side Levers – triangle. Russel levers – II. Knit one row.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for tuck stitch.

Tutorial

To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab.

Rows 1-4

Then you will repeat the whole process again. You will change only one thing – you will push every 4th needle starting from the FIFTH needle – you  shift the tuck stitch two stitches to the left. Which means that the tuck stitches align in checkerboard order:

Tuck Stitch. Machine Knitting.

As you can see every 4th needle is holding a stitch that is “hugging” and pulling the loops up, forming a tuck stitch.

So what if you don’t have a machine, but you like this stitch and would love to try it in your hand knitting? There are many variations of a hand knit tuck stitch, I will show you the one that uses the same principles as the machine knit tuck stitch.

How To Knit a Tuck Stitch. Hand Knitting.

Instructions

Before you start knitting a tuck stitch, knit a couple of rows in simple stockinette. Stitch count: 4 st repeat + 5 balance sts.

  • Row 1 (RS): P2, *yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts; yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p2.
  • Row 2 (WS): K2, *yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts; yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k2.
  • Row 3: P2, *yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 5 sts; yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p2.
  • Row 4: K2, *k4tog (3 yo loops + a st); rep from * to last 6 sts; k4tog (3 yo loops + st), k2.
  • Row 5: P4, *yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 5 sts; yo, sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p4.
  • Row 6: K4, *yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k3; rep from * to last 6 sts; yo, sl yo + st wyib as if to purl, k4.
  • Row 7: P4, *yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p3; rep from * to last 7 sts; yo, sl 2 loops of yo + sl 1 wyib as if to purl, p4.
  • Row 8: K4, *k4tog (3 yo loops + a st); rep from * to last 8 sts; k4tog (3 yo loops + st), k4.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for tuck stitch.

Tutorial

To see a bigger picture, open it in the new tab.

Row 1

Row 2

Row 3

Row 4

Tuck Stitch. Hand Knitting.

Knit 3.

You will repeat the same steps for Rows 5-8. The only difference is that you will knit 4 sts at the beginning of a row, instead of two – you shift the tuck stitch 2 stitches to the left.

Here is the result. Looks exactly like the machine knit tuck stitch!

Tuck Stitch. Hand Knitting.

Don’t be afraid to experiment – try “spreading out” the stitch, try different placement of stitches, try different fibers! I think knitting a garment with overall tuck stitch pattern will be very time consuming, but you can always add this stitch as a decorative element to your simple stockinette! One more way to speed up the process is to knit with a very loose gauge – this way you will create a lacy fabric perfect for spring and summer light pullovers/tops. Feel free to ask me any questions in the comments!

I hope you will use this stitch in some of your projects. Have a wonderful week!


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