Free Patterns and Tutorials

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How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing and Binding Off.

How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing.

I published the i-cord edge tutorial a couple of years ago, but I still keep getting questions and emails about it. So, I decided to put together a whole post that I will devote to answering the most popular requests.

  • What stitch pattern can I use the i-cord edge with?

Basically, you can use it with ANY stitch pattern. But I would say that the i-cord looks the best next to the textured stitch patterns.

When used next to the stockinette stitch, there are some things to keep in mind.

  • The icord won’t stand out as much against the stockinette as it does against the textured stitches.
  • If knit too tight, it might start pulling the stockinette fabric. Make sure to swatch before you use it on a bigger project. If you see that the i-cord is puling the fabric, you will have to watch your tension more carefully and make i-cord stitches longer than the ones in the main fabric.
  • The edge will stop the rolling of the fabric, but you might have to adjust the number of stitches in the i-cord. Thinner yarns will require more stitches to keep the edge in place, with thicker yarns 3-st i-cord selvage might be enough. The only thing to know for sure what works best for you is to make a swatch.

The i-cord would look and behave perfectly with garter stitch, brioche stitch or any slip stitch textured pattern.

  • How many extra stitches to add to the stitch count?

Though I mentioned it in the main tutorial post, I still got some questions, so I decided to cover this question in a more detailed way.

For 2-st I-cord selvage you will add 4 extra stitches to your stitch count. For 3-st I-cord selvage you will add 6 extra stitches to you stitch count.

So, if you have the pattern, let’s say, for the garter stitch scarf that tells you to cast on 60 sts and you want to add the 2-st i-cord selvage to it, you will cast on 64 sts and if you are adding 3-st i-cord selavage, you will cast on 66 sts.

  • How to add the i-cord selvage to the cardigan bands?

This question cannot be covered in one post. If you are an experienced knitter and can easily modify patterns, here are some tips that can help you:

  • You can use the i-cord selvage only when the bands are knit simultaneously with the body or if the bands are knit separately and then sewn on the body of the cardigan.
  • If the stitches for the pattern are being picked up and the band is knit perpendicular to the main body of the cardigan, then you should use the i-cord bind off technique.

If you are more confident with following the pattern, The Choice is the knit that uses the i-cord selvage technique when the band is knit simultaneously with the body of the cardigan.

  • Do you slip stitches knitwise or purlwise?

The stitches are supposed to be slipped always purlwise.

  • How to use the i-cord edge when changing colors?

This question cannot be covered in a couple of sentences, I will make sure to create a separate tutorial for it!

  • How to use the i-cord edge with the ribbing?

The i-cord edge is perfect for using with ribbing patterns! As a matter of fact, I have used it in all my patterns with the split ribbing edge. You can find it in different variations in Journey, Ivy, Mohair Flor and The Edge.

Abbreviations

  • Sl – slip.
  • wyib – with yarn in back.
  • wyif – with yarn in front.
  • st/sts – stitch/stitches.
  • k – knit.
  • p – purl.

Double Selvage with 1×1 Ribbing

Double Selvage works great with 1×1 ribbing. The best way to use it is next to the purl stitch on the right side – this way the selvage will blend in with the main pattern and will look like a continuation of the ribbing.

Instructions:

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, k1; p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyib, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, p1; k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts; sl 1 wyif, p1.

Repeat Rows [1-2] for a double i-cord/selvage with 1×1 ribbing.

Triple Selvage with 2×2 Ribbing

Just like in case with the double selvage, it is recommended to place purl stitches of the ribbing next to the i-cord edge on the right side.

Instructions:

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, sl 1 wyif, k1; p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts; k1, sl 1 wyif, p1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyif; k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts; sl 1 wyif, k1, p1.

Repeat Rows [1-2] for a triple selvage/i-cord with 2×2 ribbing.

  • How to bind off the i-cord edge?

Binding off the i-cord is not much different as binding off in pattern any other stitch, but let me walk you through this visually, so you can have a better idea.

How To Bind Off a Double Selvage

(To see a bigger picture, click on it)

 

How To Bind Off a Triple Selvage

(To see a bigger picture, click on it)

Just one more little tip for the finishing. The i-cord edge is ideal for hiding the ends – just thread the yarn inside the “tube”!

How To Knit The Perfect Edge. Ribbing.

I hope I answered most of your questions and you will successfully use this technique for your projects. I will also copy paste these answers and the link to the tutorials to the main post, where you will be able to find everything in one place.

Have a wonderful Sunday!


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By | 2018-04-08T08:37:01+00:00 April 8th, 2018|Free Patterns and Tutorials|8 Comments

Knitting Tutorial – How To Seam Ribbing Impeccably

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

During the last months I receive quiet a lot of emails from you with different questions – helping with deciphering the pattern instructions, technical things, stitch pattern explanations, etc. I try my best to answer as detailed as possible, but after receiving several quiet similar questions, I thought that maybe I should start collecting them and later put the tutorials together, so I can refer you to them when you are missing this information.

So, if you have some knitting emergencies happening, please, feel free to contact me at alina@giftofknitting.com – I’ll try my best to help and if it is quiet a general question, I’ll create a visual tutorial for more people to use it. I usually answer during 3-4 days.

One of the recent questions that repeated itself over several emails was “How To Seam Ribbing Impeccably”?

In some patterns you will find instruction to seam shoulders using an invisible horizontal seam. The horizontal seam works great for the stockinette stitch, for example; but if you are trying to put together the ribbing the seam isn’t invisible anymore – you will end up with this “jog”:

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

As you can see the stitch columns are not perfectly aligned, they are slightly unbalanced. On one hand – who will notice that at the shoulder seam?! But if you are a perfectionist and this “hiccup” is bothering you, there are some ways to fix it.

  • First, you can ignore the knitting pattern instructions to bind off the shoulders and then seam them together. But instead place the shoulder stitches on the stitch holder and then use three-needle bind off. This way the stitch columns will be perfectly aligned. There are numerous tutorials out there that walk you through three-needle bind off, so I won’t cover it here.
  • There is one more way that you can use, especially if you want to have a pretty sturdy seam. Instead of horizontal seam, you will use crochet slip chain that will align the stitches perfectly.

Let me walk you through the latter.

How to Seam Ribbing in Knitting

If you need to see a bigger image, open it in the new tab.

And here is 2×2 rib fabric – both right and wrong sides. You can see how the jog completely disappeared and your perfectionist self can be happy now 🙂

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

I’m always happy to see my tutorials on your Pinterest board, if you like it, of course!

How To Seam Ribbing Knitting Tutorial

Thank you for your questions that inspired this tutorial – feel free to send more 🙂

Have a wonderful day!


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By | 2017-08-16T06:01:25+00:00 August 16th, 2017|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting|15 Comments

How To Knit A Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Today I would like to share with you a free pattern that I put together for my California Crop TopIt’s a pretty straightforward knit that can become the perfect vacation project, as it doesn’t require much yarn, knits up fast and it’s very easy to make.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

In the simple knit piece as this one, yarn will play the main role. I love the ribbon yarn for this project, because the thread is wide, which is very fast to knit, but because of the nature of the thread, it is very light. Plus, it creates a textured surface, even when used with the simplest stitch patterns.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

As you can see in my previous post, I chose “purl” side as the right side of the fabric, but if you feel like it you can definitely use it as a reversible top and wear it with any side facing up – so many designers use the visible seam as the decorative element now. And at the end of a day, it is a casual crop summer top, it doesn’t have to be perfect 🙂

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

To see the fit of the top, check my modeled post here – The Gift Of Knitting – California Crop WATG Top.

How To Knit A Crop Top

SIZE:

32 (36, 40)” [81.5 (91.5, 101.5) cm]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Finished bust circumference: 34 (38, 42)” [86.5 (96.5, 106.5) cm].

Finished length from the armhole: approx 7 (7 1/4, 7 3/4)” [17.8 (18.4, 19.5) cm].

MATERIALS:

Yarn

3 (4, 4) skeins of Wool and the Gang, Stone Washed, 100% cotton. 1.8 oz. (50 g), 82 yds. (75 m).

Please, keep in mind that the yardage recommended is approximate. 

Needles. 5.5 mm (US 9)

GAUGE

4″ (10 cm) = 12 sts. The row gauge is not essential in this project.

 

BACK

  • CO 51 (57, 63) sts, using a long tail cast on method.
  • *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
  • Repeat the last row 4 more times.
  • Next Row (RS): Purl.
  • Next Row (WS): Knit.
  • Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures approximately 7 (7 1/4, 7 3/4)” [17.8 (18.4, 19.5) cm], finishing after WS row.
  • Next Row (RS): Bind off 7 (9, 11) sts purlwise; purl to end – 44 (48, 52) sts.
  • Next Row (WS): Bind off 7 (9, 11) sts knitwise; knit to end – 37 (39, 41) sts.
  • Next Row (RS): K1, purl to last st, k1.
  • Next Row (RS): K1, knit to last st, k1.
  • Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures approximately 7 1/2 (7 1/2, 7 3/4)” [19 (19, 19.5) cm], finishing after RS row.
  • Bind off all 37 (39, 41) sts knitwise.

FRONT

  • Make identical to the BACK.

FINISHING

  • Block the pieces.
  • Seam shoulders: Place the pieces flat, with bind off edges facing each other, RS of the fabric (in this case, purl side) facing up. Using a horizontal seam, sew shoulders together (each shoulder is approximately 1 1/2 – 1 3/4″ wide).
  • Seam FRONT and BACK: Place the pieces flat, RS of the fabric (in this case, purl side) facing up, side edges next to each other. Make sure to align the pieces, with armhole edges being on the same level. Using a mattress stitch, sew edges together on both sides.
  • Weave in the ends.

Note: As you can see, I chose “purl” side as the right side of the fabric, but you can flip it over and stay with the classic stockinette stitch – just seam the pieces on reverse, with knit side facing up.

Note: This is a free pattern. It wasn’t test knitted or tech edited. I tried my best to avoid any mistakes, but if you find one, please, let me know in the comments below. 

I hope you will use this pattern this summer and create your own simple Crop Top. If you liked the pattern, please, share it on your Pinterest board, I would really appreciate it!.

Knit Crop Top. Free Knitting Pattern.

Have a wonderful day today!


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By | 2018-01-28T08:44:35+00:00 July 26th, 2017|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Pattern, Tutorial|11 Comments

How To Knit a Simple Baby Hat

How to knit a simple baby hat

Happy Monday! Last week I finished a cute little hat for my friend’s nephew. If you remember, I started with the pattern from “Simple Knits for Cherished Babies”, the pattern is great, but there were two things that weren’t quiet right for my project. First, my gauge was very off, as I was using a completely different yarn and I had to recalculate all the decrease intervals. Second, the pattern offered to knit the hat flat with a seam. Paloma yarn is pretty thick, so the seam would be quiet noticeable and it could be uncomfortable for the baby. So, at the end of the day I ripped off my progress and just quickly calculated my own numbers. This project is very simple and can literally be knit in one afternoon!

How to knit a simple baby hat

How To Knit A Simple Baby Hat

SIZE:

Baby age – 0-3 months.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Finished circumference: approx 13 1/2″ (34 cm)

Finished height: approx 6″ (15 cm) (with the rolled edge).

MATERIALS:

Yarn

Debbie Bliss, Paloma, 60% alpaca, 40% wool. 1.8 oz. (50 g), 71 yds. (65 m) in Silver.

I used approximately half of the skein.

Needles. 6 mm (US 10) circular.

GAUGE

4″ (10 cm) = 13 sts. The round gauge is not essential in this project.

 

  • CO 45 sts, using a long tail cast on method.
  • Making sure not to twist stitches, join the knitting to work in the round using the invisible join – How To Knit The Invisible Join In The Round. – 44 sts left. Place BOR marker.
  • Work even in Stockinette stitch for approx 5 3/4″ (14.5 cm).
  • Dec Rnd: *K2tog; rep from * across to the end of a round – 22 sts.
  • Next Rnd: Knit.
  • Dec Rnd: *K2tog; rep from * across to the end of a round – 11 sts.
  • Next Rnd: Knit.
  • Dec Rnd: *K2tog; rep from * across to one st, k1 – 6 sts.
  • Finish a hat, following the step-by-step tutorial How to Finish a Hat below.
  • Weave in ends.

 

How to Finish a Hat

If you need to see a bigger image, open it in the new tab.

After all decreases you have 6 sts left.

How to knit a simple baby hat

I love the simplicity of this hat! It’s also a great project for your leftover precious yarn that is too good not to put in use.

How to knit a simple baby hat

I hope you enjoyed this little project, please share on your Pinterest board to come back to it again 🙂

How to knit a simple baby hat

Have a wonderful week!


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By | 2018-01-23T09:26:31+00:00 June 12th, 2017|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|9 Comments

I-cord Bind Off In The Round. Sleeve.

Today I want to share with you an i-cord bind off when knitting in the round tutorial that I created specially for the sleeves of The Choice Cardigan (coming at the beginning of November!!!). But you can use it with any pattern, even if instructions are completely different!

I-cord Bind Off In The Round. Sleeve.

How To Knit I-Cord Bind Off In The Round

Abbreviations:

  • BOR – beginning of the round.
  • st(s) – stitch(es).
  • RH – right hand.
  • LH – left hand.
  • ssk – slip, slip, knit.
  • k2tog – knit two together.
  • tbl – through back loop.

To see a bigger photo open it in the new tab

Here is the link to a video tutorial how to graft live i-cord sts and cast on i-cord sts – Grafting I-Cord Bind Off. The video is silent, but in my opinion is very clear.

I hope you’ll find this mini-tutorial useful! As always, feel free to post any questions in the comments.

Have a wonderful Sunday!


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By | 2017-08-01T07:58:12+00:00 October 23rd, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|18 Comments

How To Pick Up Stitches for the Raglan Sleeve and Avoid Holes in the Underarm

how-to-pick-up-stitches-for-raglan-sleeve-without-holes-1-10-16-14

Happy Sunday, dear friends! Today I decided to show you my little trick that I use to avoid holes in the underarm when picking up stitches for the raglan sleeve. When I knit my first raglan, I religiously followed the pattern instructions, which said to pick up cast on stitches in the underarm and at the end to sew small holes. I did sew the holes, but every once in awhile the sewed in holes become holes again. I struggled a lot with them and thought there had to be a way to avoid these holes altogether and not bother closing them up after you are done knitting. After experimenting I came up with the solution that I now use every single time when knitting the raglan. It never failed me once! I hope you will find it helpful as well and will get rid of these pesky underarm holes once and for all.

At first let’s see what happens when you pick up stitches the “traditional” way. Usually when you divide the body and sleeves, you are instructed to cast on x number of stitches between the front and the back. For example, the instructions would look something like this:

Body and Sleeves Separating: Work front xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work back xxx sts to marker, remove marker, place xxx sleeve sts on waste yarn, cast on 6 sts, work front xxx sts.

When you are done with the body, you usually get back to the sleeves. This is how it looks like, more or less. You can see the little “knobs” on each of 6 cast on stitch.

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

This what usually happens next, if you follow the instructions.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s see how we can avoid it altogether. I am going to use the yarn in the contrasting color for demonstration purposes.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

We can’t just continue working in the round as usual, because we have 8 extra sts on the needles and it will drastically change the size of the sleeve. So, we need one more step before we can continue our sleeve as usual.

After you picked up all the stitches needed, continue knitting the first round:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

In order to come back to the instructed 6 underarm stitches, we need to decrease all the extra sts on the next round.

If you need to see a bigger photo, open it in the new tab.

Now let’s knit a couple of rounds and take a look at the underarm:

How To Pick Up Stitches For Raglan Sleeve Without Holes

Ta-daaam! No holes! And the number of sts is exactly the same as indicated in the pattern instructions! You can use this little trick with any raglan sleeve instructions. Important to remember: there is no certain rule how many extra sts need to be picked up. The number of picked up extra sts can vary – sometimes you need 4, sometimes 5, sometimes just 2 is enough. You will have to watch your fabric and see if all the holes/gaps are closed. And always decrease all the extra sts to come to the number of sleeve sts indicated in the pattern.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments!


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By | 2017-08-01T07:58:49+00:00 October 2nd, 2016|Free Patterns and Tutorials, Knitting, Tutorial|30 Comments
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